APR stage 1 checklist - what do i need??
I'm getting ready to purchase the APR stage 1 chip for my 2004 A4 1.8T and I want to make sure I've got the car ready to be chipped. I have already installed a Forge 007 diverter valve. I have read about coil-packs going bad after chipping it and to go with the Hitachi E coil-packs. Also that you should run NGK BKR7E spark plugs with a tighter gap than stock. Any other thoughts or recommendations that anyonehas would be great!! thanks in advance...
Go APR 1+ and get the TT225 Injectors and get a DV. Also if you haven't had your fuel filter changed in 20K do that also. Get a Air Filter either ITG, K&N, nothing fancy and also when you have the lid off take the bug catcher out. All it does is get clogged and restrict Air flow. Yes do those spark plus and gapat .28, and coil packs if you want. I did the hitachi E's after I replaced 2 OEM and another went out the day after.I got the Injectors for about $315.00.
I got OEM audi TT225 injectors from autopartswarehouse.com here is the link
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...3-1607498.html
enter cupon code APW06 for a $25 discount.
I got OEM audi TT225 injectors from autopartswarehouse.com here is the link
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...3-1607498.html
enter cupon code APW06 for a $25 discount.
Is there a sticky somewhere to list these? I knew about getting a stronger DV, and big injectors for the 1+, and I heard coil packs go, but never to get Hitachi E packs (never heard of them I mean). Also never heard anything about spark plugs...
I have heard dont do Injectors seperate from the chip though, but not here. Any opinions?
I have heard dont do Injectors seperate from the chip though, but not here. Any opinions?
I ran stage 1 (not 1+) with no other modifications. Stock plugs, stock DV, stock exhaust, etc. No problems. Went 1+ and added injectors the next year (because stage 1 *and 1+*, while a nice jump from stock, still willfeel slow after a few weeks). I then switched to copper NGK6E gapped at .032 and went with a cheap 710N DV. Added exhaust. Still ran stock coilpacks. No problems.
6 months later, went to Stage 3+. Of course that added all of the peripheral parts like injectors, etc, as part of the kit. I then added FMIC and airbox. I switched plugs to one step colder (7E) and gap at .030. Went with Forge 004 BOVfor a while but hated sounding ricey so switched to 007 DV. I blew 3 coilpacks the day after install of the kit. Switched to R packs. Blew two R's. Switched all four to Hitachi E. No problems for the last year and 3 months that I've been stage 3+. Runs smoother than it did stock. Changed out plugs when I change the oil. Old plugs look perfect.
Moral of long story. You don't HAVE to buy shzit. If you're short on funds, I wouldn't buy any of it until it goes out on you.
6 months later, went to Stage 3+. Of course that added all of the peripheral parts like injectors, etc, as part of the kit. I then added FMIC and airbox. I switched plugs to one step colder (7E) and gap at .030. Went with Forge 004 BOVfor a while but hated sounding ricey so switched to 007 DV. I blew 3 coilpacks the day after install of the kit. Switched to R packs. Blew two R's. Switched all four to Hitachi E. No problems for the last year and 3 months that I've been stage 3+. Runs smoother than it did stock. Changed out plugs when I change the oil. Old plugs look perfect.
Moral of long story. You don't HAVE to buy shzit. If you're short on funds, I wouldn't buy any of it until it goes out on you.
If you're on a budget and just want to do APR Stage 1 for now, you have everything covered. The coil packs don't necessarily go bad after chipping, but if they do, it's just better to get the "E" to replace the "R". Spark plug gap is .28 as mentioned. With the Forge 007 DV that you got, if you didn't change the 'green' spring that came with it stock, it will still work fine, but from my experience, the car doesn't feel like it has that much power below3000 rpm and it just lunges when it hits about 3200 rpm. I tried the yellow spring and it still wasn't smooth. The magic combination for me was green spring with 2 shims.
thanks everyone for all the info, I'm still debating whether or not I should just spring the extra $$$ and go Stage 1+ and do the injectors at the same time.
i wouldnt even waste money on 1+ just put back for the BT kit...
also with 1+ you will need an upgraded intercooler at some point, without it, i was exceeding 170f IATs on just 1+ with an ambient of about 70-75. with a racetec now they stay within 5-10f of ambient and the car pulls amazingly harder, best upgrade ive done besides 1+, exhaust and test pipe did little
also with 1+ you will need an upgraded intercooler at some point, without it, i was exceeding 170f IATs on just 1+ with an ambient of about 70-75. with a racetec now they stay within 5-10f of ambient and the car pulls amazingly harder, best upgrade ive done besides 1+, exhaust and test pipe did little
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