Haven't run across this on the interwebs so I thought I would post it for other coupe/2WD 4000 owners...

I tried to work with the drums, I really did. New pads, cylinders, new bearings, new drums, new brake bars, new spring hardware, new adjuster wedges. And yet, couldn't keep the right side adjuster from constantly adjusting and seizing the brake. Eventually just pulled the adjuster out, but that can only be a temporary solution.

So anyway, was strolling through the Pick 'N Pull for other reasons and stopped dead in my tracks when I caught a look at the rear discs on a late 90's Jetta. The fricking axles bolt to the trailing arms with the same bolt pattern as the Coupe's axle to rear beam. So I grabbed the axles, discs, backing plate, and calipers. Sure enough it all bolts up to the Coupe and you get to keep the same ubiquitous VW 4 lug pattern.

Couple of notes if you do this swap:

1) Grab the soft brake lines off of the Jetta and use them to extend the Coupe's brake line about 4". You don't need to flare or modify anything, it all screws together. But you will need to bend the Coupe brake line around to get it to fit. I ended up zip tying it to the trailing arm in a few places to make sure it stays put.

2) Grab all of the e-brake parts including the Jetta cable housings. You can't use the Coupe e-brake cable because it's too short among other things. I picked up about 12 feet 1/8" x 19 strand 316 stainless cable from a boat supply shop (fisheriessupply.com) and put swages on the ends as stops. Hoop the cable back on itself in the swages to make it seriously stuck. You'll need to cut down the Jetta cable housing so the loop under the hub, go through the trailing arm, then meet the stop. Put the housing in a vise and cut with a hacksaw, it's the only way, finish off with a file. Wiggle the swaged ferule out of the end of the Coupe, strip back the plastic housing on the Jetta housing and it will fit in the ferule. I did some fancy trickery with shrink tube to get these ends to fit snug, too complicated to write about. I can post photos of all of this stuff if anyone is seriously interested.

3) Brake bias can be adjusted with the load sensitive bias valve that's attached to the rear beam by a spring. Just stomp on the brakes and make sure the rears don't lock up first. Move the adjuster nut/bolt forward to bias to the front brakes.

4) If you don't want to convert to the Jetta wheel studs, they back out of the disc with a 5.5 mm allen. If you do, grab 8 more for the front.

Total cost was around $70 with no new parts purchased. Up to you if you want rebuilt calipers, new pads, etc.