I have an 01 A4 with the Leatherette seating. What is the best to clean these with?

 

This sounds very crazy but I have used Murphy Oil Soap mixed with a little water to clean my leather seats. It gets all the dirt out and leaves a clean smell in the car that doesn't smell like a bad chemical. It works great!

 

You want to use a ph balenced cleaner. Nothing harsh as it can remove the dry from the leather. Go to my web site for more info www.perfectautofinish.com Gary

 

Most newer leathers are Protected, IE with a clearcoat like finish, it's not as strong as a clear coat. So
stick with a neutral based elather detergent and a conditioning agent.

many of these Multi cleaner/conditioners are fine.

 

My uncle told me just the other day that 'simple green" is all he uses....

I didnt think it was that great of a cleaning agent but he swears that its all natural ingredents and that its good for the enviroment.

Any objections? I read what grouse said somehting about having a clear coat like finish, is it too strong?

OH.. yeah i did try it and it works amazingly.

 

I personally use turtle wax leather CLEANER to get the dirt out and right after that rub in some expensive leather conditioner - takes a long time and you have to make sure you get all the dirt out before you condition the leather BUT it helps preserve leather from drying up and cracking AND keeps the interior clean longer. As for the leather cleaner, I'm sure any decent one will do the job of getting the dirt out. What you have to be is meticulous when it comes to execution - be prepared to spend a good couple of hours in your driveway/garage doing this... I actually like :-)

 

For the best all around leather care your better off getting it professionally done.

Look for a leather care professional who uses the "leather master system"

I've used it extensively in the past.

Basically you'll start out with leather masters "strong cleaner"

Dry that using blowers or hair dryer.

Then you'll move to the conditioning agents. IE Leather masters "leather conditioner"

Then dry that with air re-apply maybe 2 times for well kept car, or up to 5-6 for a new application/first time.

Dry in between each application of course.

Then apply some of the leather sealers if you want to. I never do... I prefer the feel and comfort of well conditioned leather.


This process can take about 2.5-4 hours the first time a professional visits your car. if done ever 4-6 months it should be good to go.

The process is not for suede or new buck leathers. That is a different process all together.

Cost for a professional should run about 100-300 depending on the time and severity of the condition of the seats and leather surfaces.

 

but the original poster asked about LEATHER-ETTE Not real leather. I also have Leather-ETTE which is a synthetic material.

Can anybody in here read properly and provide an answer on how to clean and condition Leatherette? ;o) I would think armor-all or something similar might protect it but that would be wayyy to glossy and slippery.

 

I would listen to what Grouse said, he knows what he's talking about.

IMHO, you always use the mildest thing that will clean it.
Why not use some automotive interior cleaner? Or some Vinyl cleaners?
In the past, I've even used my car soap on vinyl.

 

Leather Three Step Care :[/b]( Cleaning, Conditioning and (UVR) Protection):[/b]
[/b]
1[/b].Cleaning- use a soft horse hair brush (Groit's Leather & Interior Brush) and/or a vacuum to remove any dust, apply a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a
clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse
[/i][/b]
Maintenance cleaning-[/i][/b] use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time

Stubborn stains-[/i][/b] dependent upon the leathers condition or how dirty it is consider using a leather-cleaning product. (Leatherique's Prestine Clean, Zaino Leather in a bottle, Groit's Leather Cleaner or Autoglym Leather Cleaner)

2. [/b]Conditioning-[/b] recommend a preventative maintenance routine three to four times a year, once prior to the winter season to prevent cold temperatures cracking the leather, and once before the heat of the summer to prevent deterioration and shrinkage by heat, which result in continued cracking of leather. In addition to regular cleaning, leather requires replacement of natural oils; Collagen-based products like Leatherique restore the lost moisture and maintain its natural flexibility. The smell of leather comes from oils evaporating out of the hide. Conditioners are for leather which is porous, vinyl is not[/i][/b], do not use a vinyl product as a conditioner on leather as vinyl requires much stronger cleaning agents than leather and above all try to avoid raw silicone oil based products, as the silicone oil will dissolve the leather's natural oils and tend to make the leather sticky, silicone oils also have a very high electrostatic (static) attraction to dust and dirt particle.

3.[/b] (UVR) Protection -[/b] you should consider additional sunscreen protection (especially if you own a convertible) leather conditioners typically do not offer any UV screening. The best solution is to alternate between a leather conditioner and a, ultra violet radiation (UVR) protection (303â„¢ Aerospace Protectant). One month use a conditioner to keep the leather healthy and supple. On alternate months mist and wipe the leather with a UVR protection. After application allow 60 minutes for product to cure, then using a 100% cotton cloth to lightly buff surface (Zaino Z-10 contains UVR protection)

Covered Leather (Urethane, Vinyl or MB-Tex):[/b]
Since late ‘80s early ‘90s 85% of vehicle manufacturers have used covered leather for their interior upholstery. It’s made from natural hides, but uniquely treated with a light pigmented urethane resin coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, leathers worst enemy

Spills wipe off with a moistened cloth, the urethane resin or the vinyl covering require oils to stop it from drying out (just like a paint system's clear coat) coated leather is permeable and the leather underneath the urethane requires replacement of natural oils, heat will allow the oils to penetrate. Clean and apply a UVR protection as in items 1& 3 on page 2.

Identifying characteristics- [/i][/b]uniform colour and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops will not change colour.

Recommended products-
Urethane Coated Leather- use Zaino Z-10 Leather in a bottle, Einzett 1z leather care or Groit's Leather Care

Quote: Basically you'll start out with leather masters "strong cleaner"

Use caution when using Leather Master’s strong cleaner as it can remove the leather dye, test on an inconspicuous place first