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HID issue - Please shed some light!

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HID issue - Please shed some light!

  #1  
Old 11-10-2013, 09:07 PM
1st Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 3
Unhappy HID issue - Please shed some light!

Hey everyone,

I've spent over 2 weeks (ever since I received my order) trying to get my Morimoto Elite HID System 3Five (35w, can-bus, H7) working properly without ABS, ESP, Anti-lock brakes error lights.

I have been in contact with TheRetroFitSource, the distributors whom I ordered from, to find a solutions to this very frustrating issue. Their customer service is prompt and polite, but we have yet to find a solution.

I have searched all forums for solutions and applied them all without luck, well almost all.


What I've gathered through my research and applied:

-mounting the ballasts as far away from the ABS module as possible
-grounding the ballast (driver side only, should I do both sides?)
-grounding the can-bus harness (driver side only, should I do both sides?)
-splicing the brown wire on the headlight housing connector and grounding that (driver side)
-turning lights on before engine start
-from engine on, turning lights off before turning off engine

What does work for me is: turning ignition on, lights on, then both off and both on and off again, then finally on. The third time the dash will not show any errors where I can start the engine then, though there is some radio interference (which I don't mind).


So my questions are:

Does turning the ignition on and off 3 times rapidly to get the HID lights working have any negative effects on any other components which are turned on along with ignition? I am very concern this process may damage more expensive electronic components.

Secondly, are there any other possible solutions I can try to get these beautiful HIDs working error free?

Please shed some light into this issue as I would hate to resort to using the old dimmer halogens.

It's a 2004 Audi A4.


Thanks in advance.

Matt
 

Last edited by matttran; 11-11-2013 at 01:39 AM.
  #2  
Old 12-30-2013, 12:01 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: miami,fl
Posts: 3
Default

i have a issue like that, i install hid's that i bought thru ebay i pay like $49 a while ago i notice when i turn lights on abs/esp light come on then while driving the go away,but it came the time they never went away,i have to send my abs module to rebuilt $250 and $65 for my mechanic to take out ad install,they send me absmodule like in 4 days back as soon as i installed next morning i turn hid lights on and again mess up my abs module i send it back for the 2nd time {lucky i have 5 year warranty}and problem went away after taking out hid kit,you must install a good brand hid like kelvins they have better shield...goood luck
 
  #3  
Old 12-30-2013, 12:11 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: miami,fl
Posts: 3
Default

i did install the 1st hid as far from abs module but still damage abs module because hid throws a lot of voltage when turn on and the cheap hid have a cheap shield,ps when i 1st ck problem in it gave me a code P5001 something like that left wheel sensor,i change the left to right and right to left but still same code cameback thats how we knew it was the abs module keep in mind theres one module that can't be repair only a few website does them.
 
  #4  
Old 01-16-2014, 02:14 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2
Default

-mounting the ballasts as far away from the ABS module as possible
From my experience, placement of the ballast has not affected the functionality of the ballast or any of the electrical components of the car.
-grounding the ballast (driver side only, should I do both sides?)
Definitely, definitely ground both ballasts. A solid ground to BARE METAL is of utmost importance. Check and re-check your ground. I thought mine was good but had to redo it after I was having igniting problems.
-grounding the can-bus harness (driver side only, should I do both sides?)
Can't comment on this as I do not have a "can-bus harness."
-splicing the brown wire on the headlight housing connector and grounding that (driver side)
To my knowledge, the stock brown wire is the ground (or earth). I've see where someone has disconneted the ground immediately before the connector to the headlight housing. Not sure on whether or not it makes an actual difference but I did not touch the stock wiring.
-turning lights on before engine start
This should not make a difference.
-from engine on, turning lights off before turning off engine
See above.

Does turning the ignition on and off 3 times rapidly to get the HID lights working have any negative effects on any other components which are turned on along with ignition? I am very concern this process may damage more expensive electronic components.
This actually will do more harm than good. Flash-igniting the ballasts will cause them to deterioriate at a faster rate. Could cause a possible short if there are loose connections as well.

Secondly, are there any other possible solutions I can try to get these beautiful HIDs working error free?
If you have these wired directly to the battery via a harness (like I do), the only option to eliminate the bulb out errors are by adding resistors in place of the now-missing halogens.


I was unlucky enough to get a faulty ballast from a bad batch late last year from TRS. They shipped me new ballasts under warranty and they have been firing on cue since the first of the year. Mind you, we've had temperatures ranging from -8 to 54 here since then.

If your ESP light comes on, just start the car and run it around the block. The light should go away.
 
  #5  
Old 01-21-2014, 12:20 PM
pa4ul's Avatar
4th Gear
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 3,413
Default

if i were you i would just relocate the ballast. I have had my hid kit on my car for about 8 years now and i had the problem you speak of when i first installed. I just relocated the ballast. I also used a ddmtuning kit if that makes any different. NO error harness.
 
  #6  
Old 02-07-2014, 03:53 PM
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: New York
Posts: 62
Default

I also had the same issue on my B6 and quite honestly I fixed it with a simple plug and play capacitors. Universal term is Error Cancelers.

I used standard 35w HID kit with D2s conversion since I bought Bi-Xenons for mine.
 
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