Boots, CV Joints, or Axles?
#1
Boots, CV Joints, or Axles?
Hi all,
I am a newbie on this forum, so forgive me if I don't get this post exactly right the first time.
I have a common problem: My constant velocity (CV) boots are split, and the grease is all gone. I have searched the Audi forums and the web, and come up with fragmented info on my options. I am hoping you can help me bring it all together in one place. My options seem to be these:
1. Get a CV boot replacement kit (e.g., GKN brand for $25). Repack the grease, put on new boot, and go.
2. Replace CV joints only. An argument for doing this is here on blauparts.com, which sells them for $90:
http://www.blauparts.com/audi/audi_c...kit.shtml#info
3. Replace the whole axle/CV joint assembly. I have found EMPI and GKN brand axles for about $100 each. This is the route my local garage want to take, but their supplier is charging them $250 each for the axles (I need both fronts).
My questions are: What are the pros and cons of these different repairs? Do they differ much in terms of labor? (Note: I'd like my local garage to do the work, but they won't guarantee parts that they don't get through their supplier.)
Thanks for any advice or info you can provide.
Peace,
Kirbs
2003 automatic A6 Quattro 3.0L, with about $150K miles. Both front outer boots are split, and the car makes a slight pattering noise when accelerating through sharp turns.
I am a newbie on this forum, so forgive me if I don't get this post exactly right the first time.
I have a common problem: My constant velocity (CV) boots are split, and the grease is all gone. I have searched the Audi forums and the web, and come up with fragmented info on my options. I am hoping you can help me bring it all together in one place. My options seem to be these:
1. Get a CV boot replacement kit (e.g., GKN brand for $25). Repack the grease, put on new boot, and go.
2. Replace CV joints only. An argument for doing this is here on blauparts.com, which sells them for $90:
http://www.blauparts.com/audi/audi_c...kit.shtml#info
3. Replace the whole axle/CV joint assembly. I have found EMPI and GKN brand axles for about $100 each. This is the route my local garage want to take, but their supplier is charging them $250 each for the axles (I need both fronts).
My questions are: What are the pros and cons of these different repairs? Do they differ much in terms of labor? (Note: I'd like my local garage to do the work, but they won't guarantee parts that they don't get through their supplier.)
Thanks for any advice or info you can provide.
Peace,
Kirbs
2003 automatic A6 Quattro 3.0L, with about $150K miles. Both front outer boots are split, and the car makes a slight pattering noise when accelerating through sharp turns.
#2
Well if your CV axles are making noises they probably worn out of spec due to lack of lubrication. Try driving forward and backwards in a tight circle with the windows down listening for tell-tale clinking axles.
Too bad you didn't catch the problem sooner as you could have just replaced the boots with new grease.
1. CV Boot replacement should be accomplished if the torn boot was detected soon enough to prevent all the grease from being slung out of the joint and losing lubrication. You can replace the boot and add new grease boot this probably won't stop a clicking joint.
2. Replacing just the outer CV joint is possibly but the axle may not be balanced properly. Probably not a big deal.
3. Replacing the entire axle should ensure that all tolerances are within manufacturer's spec. The main reason I don't like doing this is the axles are typically remanufactured axles. So you are getting someone else's core axle = used. I like to keep the original axle and replace only what is out of spec.
Confirm your CV joints are causing the noise and go for option #2 if they are. Otherwise go with option #1. I'm no mechanic, this is my opinion, and I have replaced complete CV joints and just the CV boots on several different makes of cars. I successfully replaced only the outer CV boots on my A6.
Too bad you didn't catch the problem sooner as you could have just replaced the boots with new grease.
1. CV Boot replacement should be accomplished if the torn boot was detected soon enough to prevent all the grease from being slung out of the joint and losing lubrication. You can replace the boot and add new grease boot this probably won't stop a clicking joint.
2. Replacing just the outer CV joint is possibly but the axle may not be balanced properly. Probably not a big deal.
3. Replacing the entire axle should ensure that all tolerances are within manufacturer's spec. The main reason I don't like doing this is the axles are typically remanufactured axles. So you are getting someone else's core axle = used. I like to keep the original axle and replace only what is out of spec.
Confirm your CV joints are causing the noise and go for option #2 if they are. Otherwise go with option #1. I'm no mechanic, this is my opinion, and I have replaced complete CV joints and just the CV boots on several different makes of cars. I successfully replaced only the outer CV boots on my A6.
#3
I would just do the outer CV joints with new boots.
400 from Audi...WOW... that hurts.
90 from blauparts I guess that's the way I would go.
Also buy 2 tubs of CV joint grease from the auto store.
one for each side. I didn't even bother with the smidgen they sent used about 3/4 tub per side. I used valvoline.
If you can try to save your old clamps by carefuly loosening the ear, It's nice to have some laying around.
Make sure you replace the center bolt it is tork to yield and will break if reused!!! chuck the old ones.
And RAGS lots of RAGS
400 from Audi...WOW... that hurts.
90 from blauparts I guess that's the way I would go.
Also buy 2 tubs of CV joint grease from the auto store.
one for each side. I didn't even bother with the smidgen they sent used about 3/4 tub per side. I used valvoline.
If you can try to save your old clamps by carefuly loosening the ear, It's nice to have some laying around.
Make sure you replace the center bolt it is tork to yield and will break if reused!!! chuck the old ones.
And RAGS lots of RAGS
#4
Definitely new joints. Don't bother just doing the boot - you're wasting your time. If the grease is gone, the joint is wearing every time the axle is rotating. Think of it like continually flexing your knee with no cartilage. Forget it - you can get away with a boot replacement if you notice the tear before the grease is gone, before road debris has gotten in there.
Do the CV joint replacement. Use the Search feature for "axle" and you'll find some posts I and others made in the last few months regarding our experiences with reman axles from Empi - NOT a good way to go.
Do the CV joint replacement. Use the Search feature for "axle" and you'll find some posts I and others made in the last few months regarding our experiences with reman axles from Empi - NOT a good way to go.
#5
Thanks for the helpful posts!
A couple of follow up questions:
Is replacing just the CV joint itself less labor intensive than replacing the whole axle? (My local garage said repacking grease and replacing boots would be at least as much labor as just doing the whole axle.)
Are there brands of CV joints to avoid? I've seen the EMPI axles that the Devil warned me against, but the only CV joints I've found are the ones on blauparts.com, and I don't know who makes them. I'm gonna let my local garage put them on, but I may have to buy them myself and I don't want to buy junk.
Thanks,
Kirbs
A couple of follow up questions:
Is replacing just the CV joint itself less labor intensive than replacing the whole axle? (My local garage said repacking grease and replacing boots would be at least as much labor as just doing the whole axle.)
Are there brands of CV joints to avoid? I've seen the EMPI axles that the Devil warned me against, but the only CV joints I've found are the ones on blauparts.com, and I don't know who makes them. I'm gonna let my local garage put them on, but I may have to buy them myself and I don't want to buy junk.
Thanks,
Kirbs
#6
yea about blauparts.com... i recently got some joints from this very site and they came in a box that says "meyle products" it says they are direct from germany and i believe it b/c they say "original-MEYLE-Teile Geprufte Qualitat" all over the box. seems authentic from germany to me. the kit comes with all the hardware recommended to replace with a new joint and the boot and bolt too. fast shipping by fed ex too i might add.....
#7
Hey DBA,
Thanks for the reply. I just got the same CV joint kits from blauparts and had my local garage put them on for me. The mechanic said they are high quality parts, and probably what they would have gotten from their distributor for $200 each. I got them from blauparts for $89 each plus about $15 shipping.
I appreciate everyone's input on this. It is nice to drive my A6 again without it "purring" through the turns.
Peace,
Kirbs
Thanks for the reply. I just got the same CV joint kits from blauparts and had my local garage put them on for me. The mechanic said they are high quality parts, and probably what they would have gotten from their distributor for $200 each. I got them from blauparts for $89 each plus about $15 shipping.
I appreciate everyone's input on this. It is nice to drive my A6 again without it "purring" through the turns.
Peace,
Kirbs
#8
hello Everyone I am a newbie as well, been a few weeks and I have noticed the vibration from time to time on my 2003 A4 looked under the left front wheel and sure enough the boot is split. It does not make a vibration all the time. Sunday was the worst then it was fine till wednesday and I noticed a little vibration. Turn sharp to left and heard one bump sound nothing when turned to the right. Supposed to take it to the dealer on Tuesday next week today is Thursday. I hate to keep driving it with an opened boot. Dealer said 350 estimate on replacing boot and repacking with grease. Should I just get a cv joint kit from blauparts? Does anyone think the shaft could be bent and does this kit replace that? Thanks for your knowledge.
Shawn
Shawn
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