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Help! Crank shaft moves axially?? Rebuild engine?

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  #1  
Old 12-29-2010, 02:29 PM
cyguy2003's Avatar
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Exclamation Help! Crank shaft moves axially?? Rebuild engine?

So it looks like I am about to have some expensive repairs to my 2001 A4Q 1.8T 5M! I have around 112k on it and I have been meticulous with maintenance, changing the oil with synthetic every 5k, etc.

I recently paid to have the clutch replaced because the pressure plate was shot and I could practically push it into gear by resting my foot on the clutch pedal. The mechanic that took it apart commented on how the thrust bearing was disintegrated and wondered how it was working at all before. A swift $1300 later and it drove like new again... for a week.

Until one day when merging into traffic the car refuses to come out of 1st gear. I pull over and after coming to a complete stop, I am able to ram the shifter into 2nd gear and take it back to the shop I had the clutch repaired a week earlier. Luckily I was only a couple blocks away from the shop.

They put the car up on the lift, removed the transmission, exhaust and all the other things to see that the clutch was installed properly. They showed me that when you push on the end of the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine, the rear end of the crank slid 1/16 to 1/8" axially! They said that this was pushing back and keeping it from going into gear like I had seen.

The mechanic said initially that he though the thrust washers could be replaced if he dropped the oil pan and was able to look inside. After I checked back a couple of days later to see what he found, he said that after consulting some other mechanics they thought that it is going to require a new engine because the inside bearings of the crank were most likely trashed and it was going to cost $3500 to $4500 for a used replacement engine.

Now I am kind of caught by the b@77% here because it is not drivable as it is, and its up on the lift at this guys shop.

1. Is it possible that this was caused by engine sludge? I just got a settlement letter for engine repairs or replacements caused by oil sludging if I could prove it was properly maintained. Of course I would have to have it reassembled and take it to the stealership for verification.

2. I am assuming it was the slipping crank that smashed the transmission thrust bearing and caused it to wear out prematurely, I don't drive aggressively, and the engine was running fine up to this point. Does this sound logical?

3. Has anyone else ever heard of the crank moving in this way? I have put so much money into this @%$& car, I am about ready to push it off of a cliff. I just dropped $2k into it this month for the clutch, and new tires I wish I wouldn't have replaced.

4. Engine replacement, is this the only option? Is it worth it for a car that is probably worth 6k? I figured that at some point I would be caught up with the repairs and could just drive it.

Thanks for listening to my rant. I appreciate any input!
 
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Old 01-02-2011, 04:31 PM
cyguy2003's Avatar
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Anybody...
 
  #3  
Old 01-03-2011, 09:12 AM
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thats pretty crazy. I wouldn't replace the engine if it runs. Call up shokan or force five and see if you can get a good crankshaft. A bottom end rebuild wont be cheaper, but its cheaper than a new engine.
 
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Old 01-04-2011, 04:20 PM
cyguy2003's Avatar
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Thanks for the referral to Shokan and Force Five, I'll check it out.

I am just afraid that if the thrust washers have been ground up there is chunks of metal being circulated through the rest of engine up in the cam and lifters, etc. I don't like the idea of a used engine, but I also worry about what will break next.

I was quoted $3500 for a bottom engine rebuild and I am not too excited about that.

Coincedently, the tolerance for the crank movement is 0.07mm to 0.23mm for a new engine, and 0.29mm for a used engine. That equates to 0.011" which I am pretty sure I am exceeding by a factor of 10!

Has anyone replaced the thrust washers? It looks like a $20 part with $1000 in labor.
 
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