How is the CX Racing fmic working out for you? I'm planning on doing a Frankenturbo on my B6 and dont want to spend $1000 on a fmic... I'm a Marine out in 29 Palms so money is always short lol.

 

I've been using the CX Racing FMIC for at least a year between 2 different (but still B5) cars. It's worked well enough, as in it cools the intake air
I don't have much of a point of reference for performance comparison but it does work!


My Motoza tune was ready for me a couple hours before I got off work (making it hard to focus lol...). As soon as I was done with work I walked over to my car, started flashing the new tune to the ECU, and installed the new Bosch EV14 550cc injectors with adapters. The ECU flash came up with a couple errors but the software overcame them by writing in "recovery mode". In the end the ECU flash was successful and I was able to drive it right away! No hiccups with idle or anything! The throttle response is a bit abrupt and whatnot but that's why this is only the first revision - there will be more revisions to come as I take logs and Motoza modifies the tune.

 

Yesterday I received my 2nd revision from Motoza and flashed it.
The first revision was set up for a 3" MAF (mistakenly) while my car has a stock MAF - so needless to say things are running MUCH better. It's exceeding 210 g/s of MAF readings which pleases me, especially since things can (and hopefully will) get better

 

how mutch hp/nm do you think you have, and what is it supposed to have with the motoza tune?

btw it was my ignition amplifier that was misbahaving, its not completly dead but it dies sometimes, but can sudenly come to live

 

Like with any setup, the actual power will depend on many factors: environment (altitude/temperature), fuel (we only get 91 octane here), supporting mods (FMIC, water/meth, test pipe vs high-flow cat, etc), how good the tune is, how old various sensors are, etc.

That said I'm hoping to end up with 210-220hp and ~240-250 ft-lbs at the wheels. I'm not sure if I will take it to a dyno though, unless someone wants to sponsor me

For now though I need to take care of boost leaks. They suck. And by suck, I mean that under vacuum they are pulling in extra air and under boost they are causing a loss of air. I need to find/fix them before I get my next tune from Motoza :/

 

ok, dont use cheap silicone, replaced mine 3-4 times

we have 99octane, but i only have a k04 with bigger exhaust side

 

I'm pretty sure the leaks are coming from intercooler piping. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the CX Racing kit doesn't fit 100%, so some silicone couplers don't sit very well and are leaking as a result.

In better news, I finished the wiring for the audio system! Both amplifiers (4-channel for front door + rear door speakers, and 2-channel bridged for subwoofer) are mounted and wired
I ran new 16ga. wire for the rear door speakers (6.5" Pioneer TS-A1675R).
For the front speakers, I ran wire from the amplifier to the Bose amplifier mating connector (removed the Bose amp) so I'm utilizing the factory front door speaker wiring. Front doors have the Kicker DS525 5.25" speakers with Autoleads brackets that came from my '98 A4.

The JBL 8" subwoofer still needs a box made... I'm planning to make the sealed box from 1/2" MDF and the mounting piece from either 3/4" MDF or 1" MDF (doubled up 1/2").
This box will be made to sit in the space where the factor CD changer went, including the pocket below there. It only needs 0.33 cu. feet of internal volume which should be easy to achieve while still allowing access to the driver-side taillight and fitting the tool kit (scissor jack, wheel bolt tool) above the box.

Now, you may be wondering why I don't just make the box from fiberglass? It would be much easier to properly mold the box's shape to that space with fiber glass... and fiberglassing seems easy enough. Basically, I already have the MDF (cost a whopping $20 for way more material than I will need) and I don't want to deal with the time/fumes/drying of fiberglass.

What else have I been working on lately?... INTERIOR! Hoping to remove the headliner this weekend. Have the A-pillars, C/D-pillars, lower B-pillers, rear deck, rear seat side bolsters, OH-$HIT handles, etc. all removed. Will only need to remove the sunroof glass, sunroof slide, and then the headliner to have all of those pieces torn out
Already have the fabric for everything so all I really need is time. I dunno why it seems so challenging to find time these days. Guess with working out, starting to run again, having a wife, etc. it's still challenging. I actually get a lot of work done during my morning and lunch breaks now lol. (during today's lunch break I removed both C/D-pillars)

 

Haven't gotten a whole lot done on the new car lately, mainly just little things here-and-there like boost leak testing/fixing (intercooler pipes).
I haven't gotten a new tune from Motoza because my setup has been flawed... basically due to air leaks causing my fuel trims to be out of whack and giving me a lean code (which turned on the CEL).

So yesterday I set out to do some diagnosing to find vacuum leaks, since a boost leak test can't test anything past the check valves (all check valves and PCV valve are pretty new, so they don't let boost past them).
Within a minute I found this:




It's part of the 034 breather kit. Basically the short metal pipe at the end of the silicone hose came out of the valve cover breather hose (at the back of the engine). Must have gotten oil residue on it and slipped out, or something (hose clamp was still tight).

Such a simple thing, easy fix. Cleared engine faults, and so far the CEL hasn't come back yet. BUT my fuel trim is still majorly negative This means I still can't resume recording data to get my Motoza tune updated.

On another note, my 1998.5 A4 had been sitting in my parents' driveway for quite a while. It needed rear shocks to be installed (which required somewhat-difficult-to-get OEM parts), and I needed to power bleed the brakes while bleeding the ABS module. A TON of air came out of both front brake lines, and a little out of the rears. I bled front and rear brakes twice, and the pedal still goes down pretty far before the brakes engage. The pedal isn't soft once it engages the brakes, though... it may have been like this when I bought the car, but I don't remember LOL.

Also took the old A4 to get smogged last weekend, which it passed with flying colors! The smog test guy checked his probe to make sure it was sitting properly in the exhaust pipe because the readings were so low haha.

 

no uppdate on the differential mod?

btw i finally got an error code, but i dont think its related to my problems
16519

if i'm correct it's just the heating circuit to the lambda

and compression seems to be as i should, no idea what i should do now

 

Nope, still haven't done it yet. I got the transmission/differential fluid (Motul Gear 300, 5x 1L bottles) about a week ago. I probably would have completed this work today but I'm on antibiotics right now after being sick, and my body isn't really absorbing many nutrients... been going to the bathroom a lot too. And we've been getting rain and I typically work on my car outside.

I don't know about your fault code, but good luck.