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Torque Steer on Chipped A3?...

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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 09:57 PM
  #21  
Chef's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,713
From: Cibolo, TX
Default RE: Torque Steer on Chipped A3?...

Okay, I have the ECS DB mount and it does help with the transmission throws considerably. However, I also continued to have wheel hop and my DP mounts were cracking due to excessive movement of the engine. I've replaced the engine mounts with the VF Engineering parts and the wheel hop is totally gone. But, there is a bit more engine noise in the cabin than previously. The car doesn't shake like the 1.8T, but you'll sacrifice a little of that isolated ride with the new mounts.

The Quaiffe LSD is around $960, and the install should run you around the same. I think that each has it's own benefit, and I do intend on getting the LSD, but I also plan on the big turbo upgrade. Short of the turbo upgrade, I don't think you really need the LSD, unless you run your car in severe weather, or track the car and need every bit of traction. I also think it is an essential component with the big turbo upgrade. You'll want to strengthen the clutch while the transmission is dropped too. Save the extra dollars.

Cheers!
 
Old Aug 16, 2007 | 11:15 PM
  #22  
lavadrifter's Avatar
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 215
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Default RE: Torque Steer on Chipped A3?...

I think all "chips" can be written over. When I had my I3 ECU update at the dealer, the process overwrote my APR Stage 1 program. Whether it is switchable or not has nothing to do with the ability to overwrite the "chip" to restore to 100% OEM tune.
This is simply not true. Think about the logic of making a switchable chip. In order to TRULY set a chip back to OEM, you must REMOVE all traces of that program. The fact that you can "switch" to OEM and, more importantly, that you can switch BACK means there is some part of the program left to do that switch. In other words, you could not "switch" back if it was truly OEM. ECU's like APR write that information into a part of memory that is permanent! While it's possible that a particular dealer / tuner might not be able to tell, it doesn't change the fact that it is not the same as OEM, and would be detectable with the right tool.

I am not making a value judgement about whether that is a good or bad thing, just that it is not the same as stock.
 
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