FAQ Question and Answer post
ORIGINAL: njtrackstar
I have a 97 a4 1.8t, i wanna chip it....what i want to know is does GIAC has a chip for an auto trany???? ive searched and couldnt find out if the (TIP) chip will work on auto
thanks
I have a 97 a4 1.8t, i wanna chip it....what i want to know is does GIAC has a chip for an auto trany???? ive searched and couldnt find out if the (TIP) chip will work on auto
thanks
ORIGINAL: njtrackstar
I have a 97 a4 1.8t, i wanna chip it....what i want to know is does GIAC has a chip for an auto trany???? ive searched and couldnt find out if the (TIP) chip will work on auto
thanks
I have a 97 a4 1.8t, i wanna chip it....what i want to know is does GIAC has a chip for an auto trany???? ive searched and couldnt find out if the (TIP) chip will work on auto
thanks
Turbo Options
This is meant to be a short guide to turbo upgrades. There is a ton of info around here and other forums. Please make sure you use the search for additional info on the type of upgrade you're looking at prior to making a hasty decision.
Some highly recommended parts to get before upgrading your turbo are a boost gauge, diverter valve (dv), exhaust, test pipe (replaces catalytic converter), front mount intercooler (fmic), manual boost controller (mbc), and adjustable fuel pressure regulator (adj fpr). Only get an intake once you go bigger than a K04. The stock airbox can easily handle 300 hp and those "cold air" intakes draw in hot air from the engine bay. You should have a VAG-COM handy also.
K04
Basic bolt in upgrade. No special required parts unless going for the pc-16 or J31 files from GIAC. Do not pay more than $800 for a K04 alone. They can be found on any of the various Audi forums for less. GIAC makes a very good program for it. $1300 and an install later you can be rolling with 200whp. When looking you will need the K04-15.
GT2X Eliminator
Bolt in upgrade. Slightly larger than the K04. Good for 220whp. Most people use the Mika tuning from ATP, others use modified K04 software.
GT28RS Eliminator
Bolt in upgrade. Much larger than the stock K03. Produces 270whp. Mika tuning or Unitronic for the B5. Revo for the B6.
GT2871R Eliminator
Bolt in upgrade. $100 more than the GT28RS elim. Has commonly put down 290whp on dynos. Mika or Unitronic for the B5. Revo tuning for the B6.
Note: For the eliminators, I highly recommend a braided oil return line. The stock oil return will work, but it's a pain to get in.
Full GT28R
Requires ATP or custom exhaust manifold, custom downpipe, and custom intake. Approx 300whp, depending on the tunng and supporting parts. Needs custom tune, standalone, or dyno tune.
Full GT2871R
Requires ATP or custom exhaust manifold, custom downpipe, and custom intake. Approx 300whp, depending on the tunng and supporting parts. Needs custom tune, standalone, or dyno tune.
T3/T4
Requires aftermarket exhaust manifold, custom downpipe, and custom intake. Approx 340whp. Requires custom tune, standalone, or dyno tune.
GT2871R elim, GT2X elim, Stock K03
This is meant to be a short guide to turbo upgrades. There is a ton of info around here and other forums. Please make sure you use the search for additional info on the type of upgrade you're looking at prior to making a hasty decision.
Some highly recommended parts to get before upgrading your turbo are a boost gauge, diverter valve (dv), exhaust, test pipe (replaces catalytic converter), front mount intercooler (fmic), manual boost controller (mbc), and adjustable fuel pressure regulator (adj fpr). Only get an intake once you go bigger than a K04. The stock airbox can easily handle 300 hp and those "cold air" intakes draw in hot air from the engine bay. You should have a VAG-COM handy also.
K04
Basic bolt in upgrade. No special required parts unless going for the pc-16 or J31 files from GIAC. Do not pay more than $800 for a K04 alone. They can be found on any of the various Audi forums for less. GIAC makes a very good program for it. $1300 and an install later you can be rolling with 200whp. When looking you will need the K04-15.
GT2X Eliminator
Bolt in upgrade. Slightly larger than the K04. Good for 220whp. Most people use the Mika tuning from ATP, others use modified K04 software.
GT28RS Eliminator
Bolt in upgrade. Much larger than the stock K03. Produces 270whp. Mika tuning or Unitronic for the B5. Revo for the B6.
GT2871R Eliminator
Bolt in upgrade. $100 more than the GT28RS elim. Has commonly put down 290whp on dynos. Mika or Unitronic for the B5. Revo tuning for the B6.
Note: For the eliminators, I highly recommend a braided oil return line. The stock oil return will work, but it's a pain to get in.
Full GT28R
Requires ATP or custom exhaust manifold, custom downpipe, and custom intake. Approx 300whp, depending on the tunng and supporting parts. Needs custom tune, standalone, or dyno tune.
Full GT2871R
Requires ATP or custom exhaust manifold, custom downpipe, and custom intake. Approx 300whp, depending on the tunng and supporting parts. Needs custom tune, standalone, or dyno tune.
T3/T4
Requires aftermarket exhaust manifold, custom downpipe, and custom intake. Approx 340whp. Requires custom tune, standalone, or dyno tune.
GT2871R elim, GT2X elim, Stock K03
^good info there.. there is just a few things that i would change on it..
1-change the whp to Awhp cause some people do have fwd cars and they might not get it
2-i've known people to run a tweaked ko4 file to run as high as a GT2871r eliminator with good results.
3-also seen people get as high as 320+Awhp with a full GT2871r. with possibly more potential.
4-and for those bigger turbo's standalone and dyno testing is a big step. there is great software out there like CTapp and such
5-and there are a lot of different T3/T4 trims, A/R's and such so it would most likely be more of power output to that size T3/T4
1-change the whp to Awhp cause some people do have fwd cars and they might not get it
2-i've known people to run a tweaked ko4 file to run as high as a GT2871r eliminator with good results.
3-also seen people get as high as 320+Awhp with a full GT2871r. with possibly more potential.
4-and for those bigger turbo's standalone and dyno testing is a big step. there is great software out there like CTapp and such
5-and there are a lot of different T3/T4 trims, A/R's and such so it would most likely be more of power output to that size T3/T4
It's unfortunate this sticky is abused.... didn't really seem to go the route I think it was intended for. Maybe it should follow some type of system where a question is asked and a senior contributer must answer with an informative factual answer. The first post is a good example except that people got a little mis-guided. Now, for my NOOB question:
Q : What is a CEL, what does it look like, and where would I find it?
Q2: Is there a list of acronyms and their definitions somewhere on this forum?
Thanks for the help.
Q : What is a CEL, what does it look like, and where would I find it?
Q2: Is there a list of acronyms and their definitions somewhere on this forum?
Thanks for the help.
Q: What are some of the common items that go bad on A4's?
A: Besides the normal maintenance items (like a timing belt) here's what I've changed out on mine along with some symptoms:
-2000 A4 1.8t Quattro
4 Axle seals- $50 each. I had them changed with my wheel bearings
Both rear wheel bearings- $160 each with labor. Symptom: Starts with a mild humming sound similar to a truck on the highway with knobby tires. Gets progressively louder as it worsens. Wheel bearing can freeze and lock the wheel in position.
Coolant temp sensor- $20 and 15 min. Sympton: I had a rough idle and the temp never leveled off. Changed with spark plugs and it ran like a champ. The ECU uses the sensor to calculate rpm's at idle. Be sure to use a new clip and seal.
All the vacuum lines- Cheap to replace. Symptom: Low vacuum readings and low boost. Loss in performance. Some can be difficult to get to.
Rear control arm- $70. Changed with a wheel bearing.
Gas tank sending unit- $70, sitting with some spare parts right now. Symptom: Fuel gauge is wacko. After fill up it still sits at the E. The wiring gets corroded and breaks.
Coil packs- about $30 each, keep at least one extra in your car with the tools necessary to change one out. Symptom: Flashing CEL, horrible idle, car will barely run. They're easy to change out. Mine required an allen wrench, flat head screw driver, and 15 min to change. Depending on th year, they can be easier to change. Very prone to failure.
Hazard switch- $35. Symptom: Turn signal erratic. Will not flash or would flash twice very fast, then stop. The hazard switch in the dash has 2 relays. One is for the turn signals and the other is the hazard flashers. So the hazards will work, but the turn signals will not.
ABS Module- $250 for a rebuild with warraty. Symptom: ABS light on with flashing brake light. Moisture works it's way into the control module and corrodes the connection. With the proper tools, it can easily be done in 2 hours.
Audi Do It Yourself Website
Parts links
A: Besides the normal maintenance items (like a timing belt) here's what I've changed out on mine along with some symptoms:
-2000 A4 1.8t Quattro
4 Axle seals- $50 each. I had them changed with my wheel bearings
Both rear wheel bearings- $160 each with labor. Symptom: Starts with a mild humming sound similar to a truck on the highway with knobby tires. Gets progressively louder as it worsens. Wheel bearing can freeze and lock the wheel in position.
Coolant temp sensor- $20 and 15 min. Sympton: I had a rough idle and the temp never leveled off. Changed with spark plugs and it ran like a champ. The ECU uses the sensor to calculate rpm's at idle. Be sure to use a new clip and seal.
All the vacuum lines- Cheap to replace. Symptom: Low vacuum readings and low boost. Loss in performance. Some can be difficult to get to.
Rear control arm- $70. Changed with a wheel bearing.
Gas tank sending unit- $70, sitting with some spare parts right now. Symptom: Fuel gauge is wacko. After fill up it still sits at the E. The wiring gets corroded and breaks.
Coil packs- about $30 each, keep at least one extra in your car with the tools necessary to change one out. Symptom: Flashing CEL, horrible idle, car will barely run. They're easy to change out. Mine required an allen wrench, flat head screw driver, and 15 min to change. Depending on th year, they can be easier to change. Very prone to failure.
Hazard switch- $35. Symptom: Turn signal erratic. Will not flash or would flash twice very fast, then stop. The hazard switch in the dash has 2 relays. One is for the turn signals and the other is the hazard flashers. So the hazards will work, but the turn signals will not.
ABS Module- $250 for a rebuild with warraty. Symptom: ABS light on with flashing brake light. Moisture works it's way into the control module and corrodes the connection. With the proper tools, it can easily be done in 2 hours.
Audi Do It Yourself Website
Parts links
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Any other posts will be deleted.
If you have a question not covered here, please do a SEARCH.
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If you have a question not covered here, please do a SEARCH.
If you still can not find what you're looking for, create a new thread.
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S4_SH1460
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