Thankx everyone for their reply...
I just got back from NAPA again...I bought 4 NGK BKR6E 6962....It is V power but there is not a word on it says it's copper plug...
and i asked the guy in NAPA he told me it's just a regular spark plug, and it's not copper....and he told me NGK doesn't make any copper plug....
WTH??

but i bought it anywayz....

 

Didnt i tell you not to listen to those napa guys?!?!?! You have the right plug though: http://ngk.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=3488

Those napa auto part grease monkeys dont know **** about ****. Never verify any information with them, youll always get an *** backwards redneck answer. It says in the description for that part/stock # that it is a copper plug!

 

NGK BKR6e or 7e depending on your climate.

 

I have Brisk electrodeless spark plugs on order. Dyno proven to be superior to just about anything. (Formula 1 cars use electrodeless spark plugs.)

 

As I continue my Audi education, I also continue my automotive DIY / mechanical education.
I've changed oil, air filters, oil filters, helped on brake pads, taken my bumper off, done the clear corner mod, and installed a million stereo and audio set-ups.......

But never spark plugs.

What exactly is the advantage of a spark plug swap in a brand new car?
Any reason why my car should have a different set, my ride is in my sig. (And which plugs for the B7 ? ?)

 

NGK plugs have always been copper core. Platinum plugs are plated.

 

Any feedback regarding my post above? (#15)

 

I just installed the silver Brisk (DR15YS) spark plugs into my Audi Quattro 225bhp (which I've remapped to about 267bhp).

Driven 30 miles so far, and everything's looking good. Gap width set to .30. The four NGKs I took out had a gap of about 0.65!! I have no idea how the car kept running before that without any symptoms, but there you have it.

As for the argument on this thread about whether to go for Iridium, Platinum, Copper (or in my case Silver) spark plugs, all I can comment is sports racing cars use copper plugs. The argument for using Copper over Iridium or Platinum is that Copper is near enough twice as conductive of electricity as the other two. Silver is even more conductive than copper. How this affects engine performance or if you get any real-term power gains, I don't know. Whether this affects engine efficiency, whether it improves the completeness and force of the combustion, I don't know.

However, the only argument I can see supporting use of Iridium or Platinum plugs is that they last longer. They're standard in all European cars because, from my understanding, it's law that they have to last at least 100k miles, and only something solid (and craply conducing) like Iridium and Platinum will achieve that. Frankly, when I've just spent £160 on a dump valve, the last thing I'm worried about is having to replace £16's worth of spark plugs after 20k miles; Silver has a lower melting point, so my plugs aren't expected to last long. I'm cool with that - they only cost £4 each, and any potential improvement in performance and I'm game. It also makes me feel warmer and fuzzier inside knowing I have more conductible spark plugs! I know, stupid right...

Anyway, I installed them in about 60 minutes' time without any problems. It was my first time replacing spark plugs on an Audi TT, and my 3rd time ever. The process went thus:

1) Pop hood.
2) Remove the battery's plastic cover, disconnect your battery's negative terminal then remove engine plastic cover. Take a few photos of your engine and spark plugs and where all the pipes are going, just in case you forget. Do this throughout the process, just so you can work backwards in the worst-case scenario.
3) Gently maneouvre the electrical box from under its snug wee hole over the engine, which should be covering plugs 3 and 4. I had to keep manipulating it throughout my work to keep it out the way, which worked out fine.
4) remove the four or five hexagonal bolts holding the metal casing where the electrical box was nestled (you'll need an alan key)
5) remove the metal casing; you should now have clear access to spark plug coils 3 and 4.
6) pull the plastic snib on each of the plastic female connectors that attach onto your spark plug coils towards the rear of the car about 1mm (I used a flat-head screwdriver) - be gentle as they apparently break easily - then pull the female connector from the spark plug coil. In case anyone's a total novice (like me), the spark plug coil is the thing which sits on top of your spark plug and connects it to your car's electronics.
7) Once the female connector is off, turn the spark plug coil 90 degrees (a quarter-turn) anti-clockwise, then pull it out. Rinse and repeat for the other 3 coils.
8) Get a 10mm spark-plug socket and connect it to a long socket-set bar, then connect that to your spanner, and screw out the old spark plugs. Lift the old plugs out gently - you don't want the crud that might have accumulated around the engine spilling inside the combustion chambers.
9) Take note of the colour of your spark plugs' tips. I wouldn't know what the heck to do if it weren't anything but a light grey, but apparently white ash on it means your engine's running lean, and black means it's running heavy on the fuel:air mix.
10) Fit your new plugs, making sure you set their gap width to 0.28-0.32. I used 0.30 - can't go wrong with averages
11) I set my torque wrench to 22Nm, or just over 15 ft/lbs. If you prefer doing it by feel, you probably don't need to read my post and know what you're doing. If you don't want to fork it out for a torque wrench, then the spark-plug manufacturers recommend something like a sixteenth or eighth of a turn after finger-tightness; I forget - be sure to check.
12) Re-attach everything in reverse order. Before you screw the five hexagonal screws back in to hold the metal plate, fire up your engine to be sure things are working.
13) Enjoy your new plugs!