thanks for all the info chefro and andy.
andy do you have the atq engine? if so do you know if i need those c shaped locking tools for the camshafts?
thanks for the offer but im getting that tool with a package of tools i ordered...

so while waiting for those tools i cant really do much but i did manage to get that sucker out (the fan assembly bracket)...

after about an hour with this guys:



it came out(gotta get a new one guess its a trip to th stealership lol) :






then this sucker tricked me because after u turn it to tdc(is tdc when the mark lines up with the line on it?) and try to get the 8 bolts out it keeps on turning



then i got some wisdom lol held the 12 point with a 24mm socket and broke all 8 bolts loose turned it till it lined up and then took them out

the i made a buch of markings, better safe then sorry right (should of gotten a different color...)




stuck an allen wrench in there works fine



and this is where im pretty much am stuck right now till the tools get here...

 

i know this is unrelated to anything but check her out wearing her rain coat... lol








they said it was going to rain all day and all night but no rain yet

 

Looking at the cams, I would not say this engine is sludged up at all, it is very clean for the miles on it. What probably happened is not lack of lubrication, you had a bad heat treatment on the cam lobe that rounded. You should be able to just change the cam and move on. If th emotor has good oil pressure and compression, it could run a long time. This problem is not uncommon. I would not change the heads unless you know of other damage.

 

thanks oldmots
when i opened it up i also thought mmmmm this thing looks too clean for a "sludged up" engine...
if the cam lobe was defective, when getting another camshaft should i only get new or is it ok to get a used one? and if new is the best choice do u have any idea of places that i can get it form other then the stealership??


also do you know if i will need the c shaped tool ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Audi-...ht_3302wt_1167 ) to put the camsahft back in alignment? (bentley makes no reference to this tool)

 

also does anyone have a clue on how do i make sure the camshafts are sitting in the correct position once i put them back in?

i havent fully taken them out yet but while taking the sprocket out they turned and are now definitely not in the position they were but they are coming out so eather way they wouldnt be in same position

 

You don't need the alignment tool just keep repeating a cross
cross pattern on the cam cap bolts. Its a long tedious process since the bolts are so long. As soon a a bolt gets resistance move to the next. You'll circle around 3-4 times before the caps seat to the head and the lobes push the valves down.

As far as the position, look at the cam shafts, there's a small square notch at each one. Assuming your crank is still set to TDC, those marks will align with the arrows on the rear of the head, just forward of the tensioner. There should be 16 chainlinks between each cylinder head reference mark. Your manual should explain this better than I.

Good luck and thanks for the write up and progress pics. Good references.

 

The notch i referenced is near the sprockets at the end of the shaft.

 

If they turned, then rotate the crank manually and bring it back to TDC. Andy already pointed out to the notch, so I think it's foolproof to install it in the right position. However, you need to have everything @ TDC.

 

i also forgot to mention this: i couldnt find where to stick the damn crank locking pin 3242, the illustration on bentley was useless. and then i forgot about it and went on and now i see it laying around lol. i hope im not screwed, and didnt damage anything.
mmmm where should i stick it?? and does it even matter at this point?

camsahfts are out...

will upload pics soon

 

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