Audi A6 The mid-sized Audi A6 model offers more room to the driver and passengers over the A4 line.

HELP!!!! audi a6 3.o engine/transmission problem

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 06:45 PM
  #11  
DotAaron's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4
From: Florida
Default

lol i wish it was that easy i just bought it no longer than 5 months ago for $14,000; $15,000 after taxes. i still owe $13,000. the only way to do this is to sell it for 13,000 and break even with the loan... but if i do that i screw someone else over putting them in the same situation i am now. not to mention that i doubt someone would buy it with the economy like it is. if i do fix the transmission whats the life expectancy on it? should i fix it and sell it or hang on to it im so clueless.

2 other things when i say down shifting too early i mean the car is coasting to a stop and the car randomly jerks as if i just slammed on the breaks(holy crap i just realized that the difference in its jerking is that the BACK of the car dips down not the front as if u were breaking idk if that helps) the rpms drop a notch then jump to 1000 and back to normal
the other thing is that there are no DTC's or at least thats what i have been told
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 07:27 PM
  #12  
hxgaser's Avatar
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,980
From: Northern California
Default

You noted that the mechanic is Audi certified... I maybe wrong, but unless you are an Audi dealer mechanic, I don't believe they certify anyone.

With that said, what were the things that they worked on? How did they check the transmission fluid? To be honest, I don't own a CVT, but typical ZF transmissions do not have dip sticks to check the condition of the fluid. Meaning only thing that they could have done is check the level of the fluid by opening the fill hole. Even then, you need a VAGcom or Audi computer to properly check the fluid level. Take it to a dealer and see if they have anything to say. It may be something completely different.

If it is really transmission related, you have some issues. I am not trying to be negetive, but there aren't that many people who is qualified to work on a ZF transmission, not to mention a CVT. Like I said, (of course this is what I heard) even dealers don't work on them. They just replace it. The replacement cost you are looking at is close to $6K. And it will probably last you another 30 to 40K miles.
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 07:48 PM
  #13  
chefro's Avatar
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,941
From: IL
Default

Originally Posted by DotAaron
lol... when i say down shifting too early i mean the car is coasting to a stop and the car randomly jerks as if i just slammed on the breaks
What you describe now is actually downshifting too late, as you are almost stopped. That would be consistent with all the slippage going on. It sounds like the gears don't engage as and when they should, and almost coming to a stop it gets "slammed" into the first gear - hence the jerking (although the rear dip makes it sounds more like engaging abruptly the car into reverse while still moving forward... that's not good at all).

I believe you definitely have issues as HX pointed out....or....as many people in the past pointed to, maybe your TCM got flooded at some point in time and is out of comission.

You need all the luck you can get. Good luck.
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:26 PM
  #14  
DotAaron's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4
From: Florida
Default

although none of this sounds good i dont believe i have another choice either trade it in and pay the 6-7k to pay off the loan in full or pay it to fix the car and get screwed later... thanks for all the advice guys i greatly appreciate it
 
Old Apr 3, 2009 | 02:20 AM
  #15  
gmatov's Avatar
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 368
From: SW PA
Default

Dot,

You don't get any DTC's from the "Audi Certified" techs. Don't they plug in an OBDII reader?

You have spent so much that I would suggest you go and buy a reader for 60 bucks or so. I don't know what ones are actually useful, except the one I bought at Harbor Freight. 60 bucks on sale. It rads codes, as I have said, that my mech's 2500 buck Snap-On will not read because they do so little VW/Audi work that the key they would have to buy is not worth it to them.

Go buy one, plug it in, turn on the motor, click to read and post your codes. There are guys here who are up on them, you can find them yourself, but post and several here will reply quickly and tell you what Bentley says is the cure.

You MAY not like the cure, but you sure as HELL will not go throwing money at people who don't know what they are doing.

You have spent more than you probably would have AT the dealership.

I don't know anything about that tranny either, hell, I don't know too much about my Tip, but I do know that you ain't gonna get it filled properly by pulling a plug and sticking your pinky in like you normally do with a differential.

As mentioned, another poster ranted and raved about how shitty these things were till he read the instructions and followed them.; Now he sings praises about the smoothness of the Tip tranny. Whether that applies to a CVT, I don't know. If the CVT is an actual fat flat Vee belt drive, with an auto tranny on the other side of a partition, I would assume the tranny itself is at least as complicated as a Tip, and topping up as complicated, too.

Mine is soon to go to an AAMCO shop where a ***, a countryman, friend of the family, is going to check and top off.

Problem is that all the instructions you guys post say you have to start with a cold car, run it to temp and check, with VAG, and top up. I think if you have to warm it up from cold, it would also be warmed up by driving TO the shop, rack it, make sure it is hot enough, check and fill. NOT an overnighter.

Cheers,

George
 
Old Apr 3, 2009 | 10:41 AM
  #16  
nemohm's Avatar
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 965
From:
Default

George,

The process is much simpler than it looks like:

1. Connect Vag-com –measure the transmission fluid temperature.
The fill process should start no higher than 30C.
Cooling down the fluid depends on the ambient temperature (driving T of the fluid is ~84C). Overnight stay or low ambient T are your best choice. (Liquid nitrogen or CO2 extinguisher could be used but I do not suggest that)
2. Start the car
3. Shift trough ALL positions for 15-20 sec (at any)
4. Open the big plug
5. Fill in fluid till overfill –using big syringe is the best and fastest method
6. Monitor the T => close the plug (80NM) at 40-45C.

Note:
The initial overfill leak will be significant, then a dripping is to be observed as the fluid expands.

Expect 10-12 min time span from 30C to 45C , car idling in a shop.

The procedure (temperature wise) is for Tripts only (1998-2004) => Multitronic procedure is unknown at this time.
Some older Tripts are specified to be checked at different temperatures.
Look at your Bentley or ask the forum.

Hope this helps.
 

Last edited by nemohm; Apr 3, 2009 at 10:44 AM.
Old Apr 3, 2009 | 12:42 PM
  #17  
Jeffla's Avatar
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,569
From: Minneapolis, MN
Default

Trade it in, you are only 20. An Audi will bankrupt you at that age, or at least rob you of your youth. Your friends will be out having fun in their Focus and your trying to save up some money to replace your bad ..... again.

Take the loss now on the trade in. Get a decent Japanese car and be done with it.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ryno44
General Tech
1
Feb 9, 2015 11:05 PM
Darkzen007
Audi A6
1
Jan 22, 2011 11:51 AM
peterbr17
Audi A4
2
Jun 10, 2009 04:50 AM
kingphish
All Other Audi Models
0
Feb 26, 2008 09:56 PM
Levent01
Archive - Engine/Performance Parts
1
Jul 4, 2004 02:08 PM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:12 AM.