HELP!!!! audi a6 3.o engine/transmission problem
lol i wish it was that easy i just bought it no longer than 5 months ago for $14,000; $15,000 after taxes. i still owe $13,000. the only way to do this is to sell it for 13,000 and break even with the loan... but if i do that i screw someone else over putting them in the same situation i am now. not to mention that i doubt someone would buy it with the economy like it is. if i do fix the transmission whats the life expectancy on it? should i fix it and sell it or hang on to it im so clueless.
2 other things when i say down shifting too early i mean the car is coasting to a stop and the car randomly jerks as if i just slammed on the breaks(holy crap i just realized that the difference in its jerking is that the BACK of the car dips down not the front as if u were breaking idk if that helps) the rpms drop a notch then jump to 1000 and back to normal
the other thing is that there are no DTC's or at least thats what i have been told
2 other things when i say down shifting too early i mean the car is coasting to a stop and the car randomly jerks as if i just slammed on the breaks(holy crap i just realized that the difference in its jerking is that the BACK of the car dips down not the front as if u were breaking idk if that helps) the rpms drop a notch then jump to 1000 and back to normal
the other thing is that there are no DTC's or at least thats what i have been told
You noted that the mechanic is Audi certified... I maybe wrong, but unless you are an Audi dealer mechanic, I don't believe they certify anyone.
With that said, what were the things that they worked on? How did they check the transmission fluid? To be honest, I don't own a CVT, but typical ZF transmissions do not have dip sticks to check the condition of the fluid. Meaning only thing that they could have done is check the level of the fluid by opening the fill hole. Even then, you need a VAGcom or Audi computer to properly check the fluid level. Take it to a dealer and see if they have anything to say. It may be something completely different.
If it is really transmission related, you have some issues. I am not trying to be negetive, but there aren't that many people who is qualified to work on a ZF transmission, not to mention a CVT. Like I said, (of course this is what I heard) even dealers don't work on them. They just replace it. The replacement cost you are looking at is close to $6K. And it will probably last you another 30 to 40K miles.
With that said, what were the things that they worked on? How did they check the transmission fluid? To be honest, I don't own a CVT, but typical ZF transmissions do not have dip sticks to check the condition of the fluid. Meaning only thing that they could have done is check the level of the fluid by opening the fill hole. Even then, you need a VAGcom or Audi computer to properly check the fluid level. Take it to a dealer and see if they have anything to say. It may be something completely different.
If it is really transmission related, you have some issues. I am not trying to be negetive, but there aren't that many people who is qualified to work on a ZF transmission, not to mention a CVT. Like I said, (of course this is what I heard) even dealers don't work on them. They just replace it. The replacement cost you are looking at is close to $6K. And it will probably last you another 30 to 40K miles.
I believe you definitely have issues as HX pointed out....or....as many people in the past pointed to, maybe your TCM got flooded at some point in time and is out of comission.
You need all the luck you can get. Good luck.
although none of this sounds good i dont believe i have another choice either trade it in and pay the 6-7k to pay off the loan in full or pay it to fix the car and get screwed later... thanks for all the advice guys i greatly appreciate it
Dot,
You don't get any DTC's from the "Audi Certified" techs. Don't they plug in an OBDII reader?
You have spent so much that I would suggest you go and buy a reader for 60 bucks or so. I don't know what ones are actually useful, except the one I bought at Harbor Freight. 60 bucks on sale. It rads codes, as I have said, that my mech's 2500 buck Snap-On will not read because they do so little VW/Audi work that the key they would have to buy is not worth it to them.
Go buy one, plug it in, turn on the motor, click to read and post your codes. There are guys here who are up on them, you can find them yourself, but post and several here will reply quickly and tell you what Bentley says is the cure.
You MAY not like the cure, but you sure as HELL will not go throwing money at people who don't know what they are doing.
You have spent more than you probably would have AT the dealership.
I don't know anything about that tranny either, hell, I don't know too much about my Tip, but I do know that you ain't gonna get it filled properly by pulling a plug and sticking your pinky in like you normally do with a differential.
As mentioned, another poster ranted and raved about how shitty these things were till he read the instructions and followed them.; Now he sings praises about the smoothness of the Tip tranny. Whether that applies to a CVT, I don't know. If the CVT is an actual fat flat Vee belt drive, with an auto tranny on the other side of a partition, I would assume the tranny itself is at least as complicated as a Tip, and topping up as complicated, too.
Mine is soon to go to an AAMCO shop where a ***, a countryman, friend of the family, is going to check and top off.
Problem is that all the instructions you guys post say you have to start with a cold car, run it to temp and check, with VAG, and top up. I think if you have to warm it up from cold, it would also be warmed up by driving TO the shop, rack it, make sure it is hot enough, check and fill. NOT an overnighter.
Cheers,
George
You don't get any DTC's from the "Audi Certified" techs. Don't they plug in an OBDII reader?
You have spent so much that I would suggest you go and buy a reader for 60 bucks or so. I don't know what ones are actually useful, except the one I bought at Harbor Freight. 60 bucks on sale. It rads codes, as I have said, that my mech's 2500 buck Snap-On will not read because they do so little VW/Audi work that the key they would have to buy is not worth it to them.
Go buy one, plug it in, turn on the motor, click to read and post your codes. There are guys here who are up on them, you can find them yourself, but post and several here will reply quickly and tell you what Bentley says is the cure.
You MAY not like the cure, but you sure as HELL will not go throwing money at people who don't know what they are doing.
You have spent more than you probably would have AT the dealership.
I don't know anything about that tranny either, hell, I don't know too much about my Tip, but I do know that you ain't gonna get it filled properly by pulling a plug and sticking your pinky in like you normally do with a differential.
As mentioned, another poster ranted and raved about how shitty these things were till he read the instructions and followed them.; Now he sings praises about the smoothness of the Tip tranny. Whether that applies to a CVT, I don't know. If the CVT is an actual fat flat Vee belt drive, with an auto tranny on the other side of a partition, I would assume the tranny itself is at least as complicated as a Tip, and topping up as complicated, too.
Mine is soon to go to an AAMCO shop where a ***, a countryman, friend of the family, is going to check and top off.
Problem is that all the instructions you guys post say you have to start with a cold car, run it to temp and check, with VAG, and top up. I think if you have to warm it up from cold, it would also be warmed up by driving TO the shop, rack it, make sure it is hot enough, check and fill. NOT an overnighter.
Cheers,
George
George,
The process is much simpler than it looks like:
1. Connect Vag-com –measure the transmission fluid temperature.
The fill process should start no higher than 30C.
Cooling down the fluid depends on the ambient temperature (driving T of the fluid is ~84C). Overnight stay or low ambient T are your best choice. (Liquid nitrogen or CO2 extinguisher could be used but I do not suggest that)
2. Start the car
3. Shift trough ALL positions for 15-20 sec (at any)
4. Open the big plug
5. Fill in fluid till overfill –using big syringe is the best and fastest method
6. Monitor the T => close the plug (80NM) at 40-45C.
Note:
The initial overfill leak will be significant, then a dripping is to be observed as the fluid expands.
Expect 10-12 min time span from 30C to 45C , car idling in a shop.
The procedure (temperature wise) is for Tripts only (1998-2004) => Multitronic procedure is unknown at this time.
Some older Tripts are specified to be checked at different temperatures.
Look at your Bentley or ask the forum.
Hope this helps.
The process is much simpler than it looks like:
1. Connect Vag-com –measure the transmission fluid temperature.
The fill process should start no higher than 30C.
Cooling down the fluid depends on the ambient temperature (driving T of the fluid is ~84C). Overnight stay or low ambient T are your best choice. (Liquid nitrogen or CO2 extinguisher could be used but I do not suggest that)
2. Start the car
3. Shift trough ALL positions for 15-20 sec (at any)
4. Open the big plug
5. Fill in fluid till overfill –using big syringe is the best and fastest method
6. Monitor the T => close the plug (80NM) at 40-45C.
Note:
The initial overfill leak will be significant, then a dripping is to be observed as the fluid expands.
Expect 10-12 min time span from 30C to 45C , car idling in a shop.
The procedure (temperature wise) is for Tripts only (1998-2004) => Multitronic procedure is unknown at this time.
Some older Tripts are specified to be checked at different temperatures.
Look at your Bentley or ask the forum.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by nemohm; Apr 3, 2009 at 10:44 AM.
Trade it in, you are only 20. An Audi will bankrupt you at that age, or at least rob you of your youth. Your friends will be out having fun in their Focus and your trying to save up some money to replace your bad ..... again.
Take the loss now on the trade in. Get a decent Japanese car and be done with it.
Take the loss now on the trade in. Get a decent Japanese car and be done with it.
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