HELP: Here's the noise (Video inside)
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 437
From: Fort Wayne, IN
RE: Here's the noise (Video inside)
alright, audi squeazed me in on friday instead. the noise is coming from the tranmission. actually, the front differential to be exact. they think it sounds like a outer pinion bearing that went bad on it. so i guess i'm going to have to have it rebuilt, but i'm going to pull the transmission out myself so that way i won't be paying people $80 an hour for labor that i can do by myself. does anyone know of any place that i'd be able to get the parts to rebuild the front dif? i'm just having trouble finding places that actually have parts for the stupid thing.
thanks,
mike
thanks,
mike
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 26
From:
This could be a wheel bearing
Pretty poor quality on the sound, but it sounds almost like a wobbling hum??? If so this could be something as simple as a wheel bearing on that hub. The CV boot is the tip off. If the CV joint was damaged, and they replaced only the boot knowing they were going to sell the car, the damaged joint could cause enough vibration to ruin the sealed bearing, and you are just starting to hear the death of the bearing. If so it will get progressively worse, until it becomes a continuous unbearable humming. It may be too early for this, but bearings produce a lot of heat as they fail. An easy diagnostic would be to just place your hand over the end of the axle on that wheel and see if it is warmer than the opposite wheel after driving.
Another forensic tip would be a new or rebuilt brake caliper/rotor on that side. New is easy to identify, but if it's rebuilt you'll have to determine if the caliper on that side looks a lot 'cleaner' than the caliper of the opposite side.
The bearings require a mechanical press, so DIY would require a bearing press on site, or removal of the knuckle to bring to a machine shop. I would recommend having a trusted shop replace just the bearing first (ask for the old one when they are done). If that fixes the problem, you can just go on your merry way.
I know from experience however that when a bearing goes bad on an Audi, it is more than likley due to a damaged (warped or unbalanced) axle, a CV joint gone bad or excessive heat damage from a seized brake caliper. The ones I have dealt with are usually double sealed bearings that can take a lot of punishment - even while in self destruct mode. If only the boot was replaced. It may be time to replace the CV joint or the entire axle.
I like DIY and have found that I'm better off replacing the entire axle - that way you know you have a solid inner and outer CV joint, boots and axle. Most places will even give you a core refund on the old axle as well. For this job a dealership will charge you an arm and a leg, a mechanic may just charge an arm, but DIY is a lot of fun and you could get out of this for a lot less than you think.
Another forensic tip would be a new or rebuilt brake caliper/rotor on that side. New is easy to identify, but if it's rebuilt you'll have to determine if the caliper on that side looks a lot 'cleaner' than the caliper of the opposite side.
The bearings require a mechanical press, so DIY would require a bearing press on site, or removal of the knuckle to bring to a machine shop. I would recommend having a trusted shop replace just the bearing first (ask for the old one when they are done). If that fixes the problem, you can just go on your merry way.
I know from experience however that when a bearing goes bad on an Audi, it is more than likley due to a damaged (warped or unbalanced) axle, a CV joint gone bad or excessive heat damage from a seized brake caliper. The ones I have dealt with are usually double sealed bearings that can take a lot of punishment - even while in self destruct mode. If only the boot was replaced. It may be time to replace the CV joint or the entire axle.
I like DIY and have found that I'm better off replacing the entire axle - that way you know you have a solid inner and outer CV joint, boots and axle. Most places will even give you a core refund on the old axle as well. For this job a dealership will charge you an arm and a leg, a mechanic may just charge an arm, but DIY is a lot of fun and you could get out of this for a lot less than you think.
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 437
From: Fort Wayne, IN
RE: This could be a wheel bearing
ORIGINAL: sasquatch
Pretty poor quality on the sound, but it sounds almost like a wobbling hum??? If so this could be something as simple as a wheel bearing on that hub. The CV boot is the tip off. If the CV joint was damaged, and they replaced only the boot knowing they were going to sell the car, the damaged joint could cause enough vibration to ruin the sealed bearing, and you are just starting to hear the death of the bearing. If so it will get progressively worse, until it becomes a continuous unbearable humming. It may be too early for this, but bearings produce a lot of heat as they fail. An easy diagnostic would be to just place your hand over the end of the axle on that wheel and see if it is warmer than the opposite wheel after driving.
Another forensic tip would be a new or rebuilt brake caliper/rotor on that side. New is easy to identify, but if it's rebuilt you'll have to determine if the caliper on that side looks a lot 'cleaner' than the caliper of the opposite side.
The bearings require a mechanical press, so DIY would require a bearing press on site, or removal of the knuckle to bring to a machine shop. I would recommend having a trusted shop replace just the bearing first (ask for the old one when they are done). If that fixes the problem, you can just go on your merry way.
I know from experience however that when a bearing goes bad on an Audi, it is more than likley due to a damaged (warped or unbalanced) axle, a CV joint gone bad or excessive heat damage from a seized brake caliper. The ones I have dealt with are usually double sealed bearings that can take a lot of punishment - even while in self destruct mode. If only the boot was replaced. It may be time to replace the CV joint or the entire axle.
I like DIY and have found that I'm better off replacing the entire axle - that way you know you have a solid inner and outer CV joint, boots and axle. Most places will even give you a core refund on the old axle as well. For this job a dealership will charge you an arm and a leg, a mechanic may just charge an arm, but DIY is a lot of fun and you could get out of this for a lot less than you think.
Pretty poor quality on the sound, but it sounds almost like a wobbling hum??? If so this could be something as simple as a wheel bearing on that hub. The CV boot is the tip off. If the CV joint was damaged, and they replaced only the boot knowing they were going to sell the car, the damaged joint could cause enough vibration to ruin the sealed bearing, and you are just starting to hear the death of the bearing. If so it will get progressively worse, until it becomes a continuous unbearable humming. It may be too early for this, but bearings produce a lot of heat as they fail. An easy diagnostic would be to just place your hand over the end of the axle on that wheel and see if it is warmer than the opposite wheel after driving.
Another forensic tip would be a new or rebuilt brake caliper/rotor on that side. New is easy to identify, but if it's rebuilt you'll have to determine if the caliper on that side looks a lot 'cleaner' than the caliper of the opposite side.
The bearings require a mechanical press, so DIY would require a bearing press on site, or removal of the knuckle to bring to a machine shop. I would recommend having a trusted shop replace just the bearing first (ask for the old one when they are done). If that fixes the problem, you can just go on your merry way.
I know from experience however that when a bearing goes bad on an Audi, it is more than likley due to a damaged (warped or unbalanced) axle, a CV joint gone bad or excessive heat damage from a seized brake caliper. The ones I have dealt with are usually double sealed bearings that can take a lot of punishment - even while in self destruct mode. If only the boot was replaced. It may be time to replace the CV joint or the entire axle.
I like DIY and have found that I'm better off replacing the entire axle - that way you know you have a solid inner and outer CV joint, boots and axle. Most places will even give you a core refund on the old axle as well. For this job a dealership will charge you an arm and a leg, a mechanic may just charge an arm, but DIY is a lot of fun and you could get out of this for a lot less than you think.
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 26
From:
RE: This could be a wheel bearing
I'd be interested in the outcome.
BTW. My second car was a '73 mustang 302 BOSS convertable. Loved that car, but I was too young to realize how nice it was. Everything was stock - even the tires.
BTW. My second car was a '73 mustang 302 BOSS convertable. Loved that car, but I was too young to realize how nice it was. Everything was stock - even the tires.
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 437
From: Fort Wayne, IN
RE: This could be a wheel bearing
ORIGINAL: sasquatch
I'd be interested in the outcome.
BTW. My second car was a '73 mustang 302 BOSS convertable. Loved that car, but I was too young to realize how nice it was. Everything was stock - even the tires.
I'd be interested in the outcome.
BTW. My second car was a '73 mustang 302 BOSS convertable. Loved that car, but I was too young to realize how nice it was. Everything was stock - even the tires.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TheDanimal
Audi A6
9
Jan 7, 2013 07:23 AM
TheDanimal
General Tech
1
Dec 29, 2012 12:35 AM
OGBULLYLOCDAWG
Audi A6
4
Jun 22, 2012 06:05 PM
Joe003
Audi A3
9
Dec 21, 2009 06:50 PM
