repairing cam tensioner gasket
#1
repairing cam tensioner gasket
I have the dreaded cam chain tensioner gasket oil leak and need to install a new gasket. It is, of course, the left side tensioner. Does anyone know of a good DIY for this repair? Can I do this without removing the TB? I just did that job three months ago and would like to avoid doing it again for a few years. Any tricks to success? Any traps to avoid?
Thanks in advance,
Bob
Thanks in advance,
Bob
#2
There is a DIY by auditech on the DIY section. Timing belt does not need to be removed to do the repair.
Although auditech's way is the proper way of doing the repair I did it another way. If you loosen the cam tensioner bolts after compressing the cam chain tensioner with the tensioner tool, you can slide out the gasket. Use a small pick to pick out the half moon seal as well. Use a thin coat of sealant that cures in contact with air. (Don't remember the name, but you can get it from the dealer parts counter) And can slide back in the gaskets.
I recommend that you replace the rear cam seals and caps while at it. Obviously you will need to replace the valve cover gaskets as well.
If you order the blauparts kit, there is a good instruction as well. Basically you will be following the instruction other than removing the timing belt because you will not be changing the front cam seals.
Although auditech's way is the proper way of doing the repair I did it another way. If you loosen the cam tensioner bolts after compressing the cam chain tensioner with the tensioner tool, you can slide out the gasket. Use a small pick to pick out the half moon seal as well. Use a thin coat of sealant that cures in contact with air. (Don't remember the name, but you can get it from the dealer parts counter) And can slide back in the gaskets.
I recommend that you replace the rear cam seals and caps while at it. Obviously you will need to replace the valve cover gaskets as well.
If you order the blauparts kit, there is a good instruction as well. Basically you will be following the instruction other than removing the timing belt because you will not be changing the front cam seals.
#3
The left side is actually easier to replace than the right becasue on the right side there is a plate that limits the movement of the chain tensioner. Also make sure you inspect the tensioner to see if there is any cracking on the part were the chain rides on.
While doing a gasket I found the top of the tensioner was actually broken, luckly I saw that because that could have been bad news if overlooked.
While doing a gasket I found the top of the tensioner was actually broken, luckly I saw that because that could have been bad news if overlooked.
#4
I don't understand. The instructions from auditech97 are for replacing the cam tensioner itself and require the removal of the cam shafts, which ain't gonna happen without removing the timing belt. What I am missing? Are you saying that I can remove the valve cover, compress the tensioner, unbolt it and slide the gasket out from underneath the tensioner without really removing it?
Bob
Bob
#5
I don't understand. The instructions from auditech97 are for replacing the cam tensioner itself and require the removal of the cam shafts, which ain't gonna happen without removing the timing belt. What I am missing? Are you saying that I can remove the valve cover, compress the tensioner, unbolt it and slide the gasket out from underneath the tensioner without really removing it?
Bob
Bob
#7
cam tensioner gasket pita
just replaced driver side on 2.8 atq yesterday. holy fu#@!ng sh@t that sucked! You HAVE to HAVE to HAVE to crank the engine until the cams are in a position to let the tensioner compress enough with the special tool. Otherwise you will be cursing like me...alllll day.
The driver side tensioner is at front of engine and one end of it is (on my car) buried partially under the timing belt back (hard metal) cover...keeping it from rising up enough for the tensioner gasket to slide over the raised studs (each of the 3 bolts on the top front of tensioner - there is also one bolt on the back -have raised edges that the gasket sits on)...so remember that you have to be able to lift the entire tensioner up about 1/4 to 1/2 inch or you wont clear these studs. good luck!
The driver side tensioner is at front of engine and one end of it is (on my car) buried partially under the timing belt back (hard metal) cover...keeping it from rising up enough for the tensioner gasket to slide over the raised studs (each of the 3 bolts on the top front of tensioner - there is also one bolt on the back -have raised edges that the gasket sits on)...so remember that you have to be able to lift the entire tensioner up about 1/4 to 1/2 inch or you wont clear these studs. good luck!
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robert.jones
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12-10-2008 08:01 AM
robert.jones
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12-10-2008 07:56 AM