Valley Pan Gasket; Head Gaskets
I'll have to drive 50 minutes to the nearest city with a Home Depot. We have a couple of hardware stores in town, but by the time I buy everything to concoct a homemade one, probably it may add up to the price of an original one.
GenuineVWAudiparts have the original one for like $ 12.75... I'll just order one from them and that's it. I think I'm done with ECSTuning for a while...
Inyhoo (to steal George's expression; By the way, how are you, George?)...
Great strides were made today
!
What I have left before starting on the timing belt tomorrow:
- Replace the vacuum hose from the PurgeValve to ThrottleBody (the long one, larger ID)
- Vacuum Reservoir
- Install the spark plugs
- Install the plug wires
- Install the whole vacuum hose unit on the driver side (the one running from the front of the manifold, including the Y-Spider regulator, and connecting to the breather hose + Brake Booster.
That's ALL!
I still can't believe I got to this point but the camera doesn't lie
:
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Bank 1:

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-
Bank 2 - Assembly Lube:

-

-
-
Fuel Rail back in:

-
-
Air Intake back in:

-
Everything done while siping every now and then from some cold Leinenkugel Classic Amber... Can't beat that thrill. Forget Memorial day...Actually tomorrow is the Timing Belt day; a memorable one for the future
GenuineVWAudiparts have the original one for like $ 12.75... I'll just order one from them and that's it. I think I'm done with ECSTuning for a while...
Inyhoo (to steal George's expression; By the way, how are you, George?)...
Great strides were made today
!What I have left before starting on the timing belt tomorrow:
- Replace the vacuum hose from the PurgeValve to ThrottleBody (the long one, larger ID)
- Vacuum Reservoir
- Install the spark plugs
- Install the plug wires
- Install the whole vacuum hose unit on the driver side (the one running from the front of the manifold, including the Y-Spider regulator, and connecting to the breather hose + Brake Booster.
That's ALL!

I still can't believe I got to this point but the camera doesn't lie
:-
Bank 1:

-
-
Bank 2 - Assembly Lube:

-

-
-
Fuel Rail back in:

-
-
Air Intake back in:

-
Everything done while siping every now and then from some cold Leinenkugel Classic Amber... Can't beat that thrill. Forget Memorial day...Actually tomorrow is the Timing Belt day; a memorable one for the future
Oh, by the way guys:
Do vacuum hoses going to certain places should have a certain length?
I'm thinking to change the route of the "light green" one - from the Non-return check valve to the Vacuum Reservoir. The line runs "genuinely" under the manifold.
I think I could run it right over the MAF, over the Bank 1 valve cover and probably tiewrap it to the PSteering line. That way it is much shorter and straight to the reservoir.
What do you guys think?
Do vacuum hoses going to certain places should have a certain length?
I'm thinking to change the route of the "light green" one - from the Non-return check valve to the Vacuum Reservoir. The line runs "genuinely" under the manifold.
I think I could run it right over the MAF, over the Bank 1 valve cover and probably tiewrap it to the PSteering line. That way it is much shorter and straight to the reservoir.
What do you guys think?
Shouldn't be a problem. I lengthened all of the vacuum hoses a little that were too short to leave attached to other parts. For example the one on my 3.0 from the check valve to the manifold was short if I wanted to remove the fuel rail I needed to disconnect it and a pita to put back on. Not any more.
Nice to see it coming together again looks great!
Nice to see it coming together again looks great!
Damn man. You do realize this car is gonna run like new when its done right?? LOL. Those after pics are of the cleanest 12v motor Ive ever seen!
Nice job on a complete thread. Very informative! And cleaning as you go, priceless, something you can never get from a shop.
Nice job on a complete thread. Very informative! And cleaning as you go, priceless, something you can never get from a shop.
Thanks, Matt. I appreciate every word of it.
I hope it will run like new, although I didn't change the oil pressure relief valves (the two tinny ones - one in each head) and those non-returning valves in the valley pan.
The first measure of what "good" of a job I did it will be when trying to fire up the darn thing.
If only the rain would stop so I can get the timing belt in...
I hope it will run like new, although I didn't change the oil pressure relief valves (the two tinny ones - one in each head) and those non-returning valves in the valley pan.
The first measure of what "good" of a job I did it will be when trying to fire up the darn thing.
If only the rain would stop so I can get the timing belt in...
Damn man. You do realize this car is gonna run like new when its done right?? LOL. Those after pics are of the cleanest 12v motor Ive ever seen!
So, what tools were you using for the wheel bearings?
I have replaced the center differential seal on two of my C4 chassis Audi. That required dropping the catalytic converters. Next, I have to replace the rear differential left and right axle seals on my 1996 A6 Quattro wagon with automatic transmission. The tool for the left side was a special order, which took about 6 weeks.
Your work looks very clean and professional.
I have replaced the center differential seal on two of my C4 chassis Audi. That required dropping the catalytic converters. Next, I have to replace the rear differential left and right axle seals on my 1996 A6 Quattro wagon with automatic transmission. The tool for the left side was a special order, which took about 6 weeks.
Your work looks very clean and professional.
Thanks, hcw.
Well, I didn't get yet to the "outside of the engine" issues, yet.
Probably I'll first have to press the bearing on the new wheel hubs and start from there with the installation. I have a mechanic friend that I'm sure he has a press.
When I'll get there I will post a similar well-documented thread. (or write-up).
I too had to order the triple-square 10M long bit for the CV axles. As soon as completing the engine work I will change the bearings/hubs and the axles.
The CV axles job doesn't seem too complicated or hard, unless you have stripped bolts trouble.
I know I'm not much help on the two issues you're about to tackle, but if I get to them before you, you'll surely have some pertinent information from me.
cheers.
Well, I didn't get yet to the "outside of the engine" issues, yet.
Probably I'll first have to press the bearing on the new wheel hubs and start from there with the installation. I have a mechanic friend that I'm sure he has a press.
When I'll get there I will post a similar well-documented thread. (or write-up).
I too had to order the triple-square 10M long bit for the CV axles. As soon as completing the engine work I will change the bearings/hubs and the axles.
The CV axles job doesn't seem too complicated or hard, unless you have stripped bolts trouble.
I know I'm not much help on the two issues you're about to tackle, but if I get to them before you, you'll surely have some pertinent information from me.
cheers.




