Hmmmm... I didn't know the two nuts trick; but it sounds as I don't even need to use that.
The hard part is to remove the rusted ones. I tried earlier today to unscrew one of the three left on the driver side exhaust head after hitting them with PBlaster for the whole morning. I managed to turn it about three threads but I can't grip it anymore, as the shoulder thinned out already.
I guess I'll have to replace only the ones that came out when dismounting and leave the rusted ones in (I hate that... )
Unless the two nuts trick may work backwards for removing, as well. At least I will try it; nothing to lose, right?
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I got sick of trying to remove the damn stud, so I decided to paint the exhaust heads - lol:
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Thanks much, Jim.
You're always so prompt, man.
Cheers

 

Yep.. use the jam nut idea. Just thread one on, then tighten the other against it. If you have spare nuts, loc-tite or even weld them on

 

I'll report back after I try to remove the studs via jam nut. Probably late tomorrow afternoon or Wed.
Meantime I should keep PBlasting them, then.
Alrighty.

 

PBlaster is the bomb..

If you have a torch, heat up the head, aluminum expands quicker than steel and should bust through the crud. Also, when you have them out a turn or two, crank 'em back in then out a few times till the loosen up.

 

Get a couple cans of flammable liquid wrench, I like that stuff better on bolts than PB. make sure you tap them to jar them too. Put a punch or a ball pin hammer an top of the stud then tap it with another hammer it will help the fluid work in there.

Just in case / they are reverse drill bits and extractors, http://www.autobarn.net/xxxw-irw1111...te=google_base
Saved my *** so many times, as soon as you reach the end
the drill bit usually binds and backs the stud out.

 

Remember deNiro in "Analyze That" talking to Billy Cristal :
"You....you Doc....you're good .....you....yes, you do!" ?

You guys have a gift.
To keep it short, I tried the jam nut thingy and Helluva....after a "terrible" fight with 3 of the 5 studs left on the exhaust heads I was able to remove'm.
They were stubborn, but I was even more of a mule . I rendered in the process 6 or seven nuts and a 12metric wrench useless, but the human won in the end.
The cylinder head studs came out so much easier - truth told they weren't rusted as the ones on the exhausts. It must be the difference in temp and the nature of the exposure location, probably.
I can't hardly wait to get the ECSTuning package.
Thanks a lot, gents.
Cheers
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The "mule" starts to come out

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All studs were removed - YESSSSSSSSSS
(that coppery stuff id anti-seize paste - initially I had given up on two extremely rusted ones and decided to use'm like that when reassembling, coated with some anti-seize paste)

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Heads are waiting for new studs, as well

 

 

Holy Crap I would of heated that one. You must have the golden touch. I thought you were taking them out of the head /aluminum. You can get a can of Mapp gas and heat the ones that are stuck in cast red they spin right out. Don't worry you can try that on the next thread You know the one where you rebuild the transmission

 

Ditto..

 

Back in business after a delay caused by ECS ...

-New studs went in two days back with thread lock and today I mounted back the exhausts on the heads - new gaskets, of course.
-The manifold is also back together and ready to go in, with the throttle body on it. - new gaskets, of course.
-I changed all the vacuum hoses.
-All the connection terminals, I mean all of them are cleaned and greased up - ready to go.

Tomorrow is the big day, as I'll keep my fingers crossed - the heads are going back in.