Valley Pan Gasket; Head Gaskets
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,227
From: New York
What if...
What if the resistance is the problem?
Is it supposed to be there?
Is it the point your Trans should down shift but isn't?
Free shipping (but not handling) on cushions by the way and if you act now we will throw in a set of oven mitts for those stuffed peppers, and but wait how about a VAG decoder ring.
What if the resistance is the problem?
Is it supposed to be there?
Is it the point your Trans should down shift but isn't?
Free shipping (but not handling) on cushions by the way and if you act now we will throw in a set of oven mitts for those stuffed peppers, and but wait how about a VAG decoder ring.
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,941
From: IL
I'll have to make a trip to Indiana sometime in Nov and you can experience what I'm talking about.
Jack, I would assume it suppose to be there.
T h i s suppose to explain probably better what I was refering to, except the "selecting a lower gear".
As I was saying, if the tranny would shift down to third gear when that "kick-down" acceleration occurs, I should feel an upshift as soon as the speed stabilizes, don't I? I don't feel any upshift.
Anyway, I doubt that has anything to do with my engine vibration thingy.
Jack, I would assume it suppose to be there.
T h i s suppose to explain probably better what I was refering to, except the "selecting a lower gear".
When the accelerator pedal Is pressed rIght down past the poInt of resIstance at full throttle, the gearbox wIll select a lower gear ratIo, dependIng on road speed and engIne speed.
Anyway, I doubt that has anything to do with my engine vibration thingy.
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,941
From: IL
I do feel and hear the acceleration, and I do see RPM change - of course is normal, but as I said I do not feel a downshift or an upshift (or shift back to 4th gear) when the thrust levels out and I settle at a certain chosen speed, so to speak. Of course, that maybe is the case because both shifts are virtually undetectable, or I may be stupid enough not to recognize shifts anymore in a car...
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,042
From: Indiana
Well.. if you are getting an RPM change, it is doing something. Are you flooring the pedal doing this or just 3/4? I've noticed that when I just go to pass and only increase the throttle w/o flooring it, it will drop out of lock up. Push alittle more and it downshifts. Floor it, and it usually drops another gear. This is alittle different than other cruiser cars that usually just downshift once at WOT. Something that was also mentioned in the review of these cars and why they seem so quick on reletively little HP.
As a side note, I rarely go above the 4200 RPM required to activate the Manifold Changeover, but you can feel it when it happens. Kinda like a 'mush' just before it opens... then a full on power climb.
As a side note, I rarely go above the 4200 RPM required to activate the Manifold Changeover, but you can feel it when it happens. Kinda like a 'mush' just before it opens... then a full on power climb.
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,941
From: IL
P.S. I may try to make a little movie with my crappy photo camera, despite its damn "frames" clicking when in video mode.
Last edited by chefro; Oct 4, 2009 at 03:11 PM.
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,042
From: Indiana
Although in my case it happens almost at nearly the same RPM (maybe only 2-400 RPM difference give or take),
Six flaps in the multi-path intake manifold are opened and closed by the intake manifold change-over valve. Change-over valve is a vacuum servo electronically activated by the PCM. Valve is located under mass airflow sensor and operates according to engine speed. At engine speeds greater than 4100 RPM, change-over valve opens the 6 flaps in the intake manifold. The valve receives 12 volts from fuse box under passenger's footwell. PCM supplies a ground signal (energizing change-over valve) at the appropriate engine speed. If intake manifold change-over valve fails, no substitute function is provided. Flaps will remain closed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Midniteoyl View Post
Well.. if you are getting an RPM change, it is doing something. Are you flooring the pedal doing this or just 3/4?
No, I think I already mentioned it. I don't need to floor the pedal.
Originally Posted by Midniteoyl View Post
Well.. if you are getting an RPM change, it is doing something. Are you flooring the pedal doing this or just 3/4?
No, I think I already mentioned it. I don't need to floor the pedal.
Last edited by Midniteoyl; Oct 5, 2009 at 12:22 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 517
From:
Chefro. did you ever check to se if the "VAG 00549 - Fuel Consumption Signal" came back? I am not certain of what your " resistance point" may be. However, if there is poor comunication between engine and transmission, then perhaps performance may suffer. Without this signal, the computer may act differently.
The FWD has a different transmission than the Quattro, so perhaps there is something about FWD transmissions which is programmed differently than for the Quattro.
Also, if there is a vacuum leak in the changeover valve servo diaphram or elsewhere, this could cause poor performance. Sometimes, there is a problem with the torque converter or transmission, however it is best to try the cheaper fixes first.
Does your 1995 A6 have the AFC engine?
I finally found out that the plugage in my daugther's 1998 A6 wagons 2.8L AFC engine block drain was behind the rear crankshaft seal flange. Unfortunately the seal flange is difficult to remove intact, without first removing the upper and lower oil pan.
If there had been no problem with the engine block drain, a special tool is used to pry out the old seal from the aluminum seal flange, which is bolted to the engine block. Another special tool is used to properly press the new seal into place. The new seal kit comes with a plastic sleave for getting over the crankshaft end.
The existing rear crankshaft seal was not leaking at 120,000 miles, but since it's elastic material had hardened it would have been risky to reuse.
Next, I decided to replace the torque converter seal, while the engine is out of the car.
The FWD has a different transmission than the Quattro, so perhaps there is something about FWD transmissions which is programmed differently than for the Quattro.
Also, if there is a vacuum leak in the changeover valve servo diaphram or elsewhere, this could cause poor performance. Sometimes, there is a problem with the torque converter or transmission, however it is best to try the cheaper fixes first.
Does your 1995 A6 have the AFC engine?
I finally found out that the plugage in my daugther's 1998 A6 wagons 2.8L AFC engine block drain was behind the rear crankshaft seal flange. Unfortunately the seal flange is difficult to remove intact, without first removing the upper and lower oil pan.
If there had been no problem with the engine block drain, a special tool is used to pry out the old seal from the aluminum seal flange, which is bolted to the engine block. Another special tool is used to properly press the new seal into place. The new seal kit comes with a plastic sleave for getting over the crankshaft end.
The existing rear crankshaft seal was not leaking at 120,000 miles, but since it's elastic material had hardened it would have been risky to reuse.
Next, I decided to replace the torque converter seal, while the engine is out of the car.
Last edited by a6hcw; Oct 5, 2009 at 10:46 PM.
