Speaking of oil changes, and being new to the Audi family, I guess the days of my wife taking the car to Jiffy Lube for an oil change have come to an end?

Jim

 

I'm in Needham MA. I convinced my mechanic to do it for straight labor plus parts. But i would strongly advise you NOT to take it to anyone who doesnt know exactly what they are doing...

 

I followed these instructions to a T and didn't have any issues changing the oil in my wife's A8. But when I tried to start the car, it would idle really low, then idle high as if someone was giving it gas, then it would die. I am stumped as to what is causing this. I've checked everything and it all looks good. I did disconnect the electrical connection to the MAF, but I wouldn't think that would cause this issue.

Any ideas? It sounds like perhaps a vacuum line is disconnected, but I didn't see anything.

 

warm oil drains faster, it also stirs up particles and suspends them in the oil. Also, it ensures there is oil in the bearings and critical head parts that could run "dry" at start up. The old oil will cling onto those surfaces long enough for the change and save your motor.

speaking about not knowing what is going on. The last Audi dealership trip was concerning -- they tried to convince me their incorrect bulb was the right one for my DRL - which I'd spent much time researching before the question. 2 employs later an experienced guy came walking in with the right bulbs and just gave them to me. Wouldn't it make sense for them to put their most junior folks on oil changes? Now consider what happens at places like ped boys and other zones -- insisting to stand and watch them change tires, I've watched them in the last 12 mos cross-thread strip 4 of the 5 lugs on a new pickup with 500ft/# impact wrench, hammers come out to install alternators, etc.. I didn't mother over my most recent alignment realignment and leaving the store my power steering began leaking instantly and my headlight motor gear was stripped. I installed the new rack 30K ago and new lift motor 20K ago - both were in working order before they touched my car. never again. They position themselves so all you can do is comment on GOOGLE. That's why Im on the forums now - share what I know and learn on mine and I seek your experience as well.

 

I got the vacuum oil change pump from the online eurospec store. I absolutely love it and I could change the oil in a business suit without getting a drop on me. I agree, pulling the plug gets more out, however, with 8 qts capacity I'm extracting that and even able to suck out the oil in the filter area. Biggest thing to watch is ENSURE you get right spec oil. most synthetic oils (including most Mobil 1) in the US parts stores are NOT up to audi-wv spec. must be 502 vwaudi spec, check you manual. Order a few of the 4-5 qt jugs online for the best quality oil. After my brother floated a valve (or maybe it collapsed all the lifters) on my dad's car using 0W in a 10w30 engine I'll never run lighter spec weight oils - it destroyed that engine and ended up being a $2000 home driveway oil change.

 

BTW - most dealers and warranties test oil quality if they are looking at failed hydraulic cam chain tensioners. another reason to not get 0W, in my experience is the spec is 10w30-10w40.

 

I know some steps for oil change in Audi A4 and these are as following:
Drive the car to warm up the engine oil.
Drive the Car on ramps or put it on jack stands.
Remove the belly pan using the flat head screw driver.
Open the hood and remove the oil cap to let the pressure in the crankcase escape.
Locate the engine oil filter.