Picking the right turbo
ORIGINAL: cincyTT
you just need a 440cc file written for a gt28rs. People have also had great success with the Unitronic 630cc file with the t3 60 also. So Revo 440cc file or Uni 630cc file <= what i would choose
ORIGINAL: DurTTy
yea software is a killer [:@], that will be my final holdup on the Turbo upgrade...
can we get a list of makers of software for the t3super60trim / t360trim
yea software is a killer [:@], that will be my final holdup on the Turbo upgrade...
can we get a list of makers of software for the t3super60trim / t360trim
440cc GT28RS program??? im going out on a limb here ... but is this because the corrected air flow is equal 33lbs/min ? I notice the 2 turbos are very diff in size:: 28rs C A/R 0.60 & T A/R 0.86 vs s60 has C A/R 0.42 & T A/R 0.48
440cc (injector size) file. It is written for a gt28rs .64 and they have a .86 file also that can be used with a gt2871r also.
The .86 is the largest housing for he gt28rs (not really worth getting a .86 on a 1.8t), the .64 t25 housing is about the same as a t3 .48 and the two turbos flow about the same cfm, and the more important part, spool times are about the same also. That is why the sw will work for all three turbos.
The .86 is the largest housing for he gt28rs (not really worth getting a .86 on a 1.8t), the .64 t25 housing is about the same as a t3 .48 and the two turbos flow about the same cfm, and the more important part, spool times are about the same also. That is why the sw will work for all three turbos.
IC, i was getting all confused cuz, on Vortex theyall reffer to REVO BT! revo BT! ... and its thrown around more than a hot potatoe.
Also there is mention of Dahlback .. not sure if i spelled it right or not.
I know you are running a diode Cincy, will a diode not do the same thing that revo does? Remove Limp mode on overboost but i guiess would have to do some tuning with limminwiks as well to match the mods etc.
Also there is mention of Dahlback .. not sure if i spelled it right or not.
I know you are running a diode Cincy, will a diode not do the same thing that revo does? Remove Limp mode on overboost but i guiess would have to do some tuning with limminwiks as well to match the mods etc.
I would refrain from Dalhback products, they are overpriced and perform little. But what a BT program does is move the requested boost curve to match the turbo's (or close to) boost curve. So instead of expecting the boost curve for a k03/4 it will do a typical gt28rs/2871r/t3t4 so on and then have the fuel/timing curve to match. All while making the car idle like stock and cruise like stock with larger injectors and MAF. A diode will still keep the stock boost, fuel, and timing curve
Can the bosch ECU be tuned using the VAG to match those requested parameters for a specific turbo ?
just a thought - maybe im going the wrong direction on this, *chip tuners will not allow us due to lockout mechs**
just a thought - maybe im going the wrong direction on this, *chip tuners will not allow us due to lockout mechs**
You have 2 choices, a chip tune from Revo, Unitronics, Giac..... and fine tuned with lemmi OR full standalone. The Me7 ecu is to advanced for normal tuners unlike many imports that just buy sw and then can change fuel/timing maps.
ok looks like that may be my option to pursue. once again the darn SW is always in the way.
My friend has a AWP 1.8T with a t3/t4 not sure on the actualy specific model of hybrid, but it is putting 300 WHP at the dyno with only16 - 17 lbs of boost ( his claim i didnt acutally verify this)also mind you the motor is not yet installed in his car, the motor is currently in a Mk3 Golf and will be ripped out and placed in my friend's Mk2 Jetta 4dr,
neways... whole point was that he has stand alone and .. holy Cr@p --why pay 25 cents for a massage chair when youcan just idle on a stand alone .... its rough as hell. once it starts running no probs but idle is horrible. we also got warned about clod starts.
i definetly want to avoid this problem since my TT is a summer car and track car (circuit not 1/4 mile)
I was also told that tuning the Stand alone was a bihach, i guess cannot be done through the VAG since the stnad alone runs on no sensors.
My friend has a AWP 1.8T with a t3/t4 not sure on the actualy specific model of hybrid, but it is putting 300 WHP at the dyno with only16 - 17 lbs of boost ( his claim i didnt acutally verify this)also mind you the motor is not yet installed in his car, the motor is currently in a Mk3 Golf and will be ripped out and placed in my friend's Mk2 Jetta 4dr,
neways... whole point was that he has stand alone and .. holy Cr@p --why pay 25 cents for a massage chair when youcan just idle on a stand alone .... its rough as hell. once it starts running no probs but idle is horrible. we also got warned about clod starts.
i definetly want to avoid this problem since my TT is a summer car and track car (circuit not 1/4 mile)
I was also told that tuning the Stand alone was a bihach, i guess cannot be done through the VAG since the stnad alone runs on no sensors.
Many standalones use factory sensors and can make far more power than a chipped tune. The problem is that cost for the stand alone can cost $1200-2k and then double that for the install and tune time. A good tuner can make a car run stock like with massive power. But another drawback is most people will fail emissions since they dont take the time to make everything work.
I personally would stick with something no larger than a t3 60/t3s60/gt28rs for a fast circut car. You can get a great tune with Unitronic or Revo with those turbos and make give or take 300whp depending on othermods
I personally would stick with something no larger than a t3 60/t3s60/gt28rs for a fast circut car. You can get a great tune with Unitronic or Revo with those turbos and make give or take 300whp depending on othermods


