2.8V6 12V: cat rattling
2.8V6 12V: cat rattling
One cat is rattling in its box (VERY loud and annoying). Need to get rid.
Both cats.
I see the following options:
a) take downpipes off (plus flex plus cat). Take to muffler shop (they are not allowed to elimate cats on the car), have them cut out the cats and weld in bent pipe. Comment: LOTS of work and PITA to get the downpipes off.
b) Cut (downstream of brand new flex pipes) cats out, take to muffler place to make bent pipe. Try to get slip joint over flex pipe end and downstream end of pipe. Install. Comment: not sure if I can get something over the flex pipe ends, they are kind of larger (with fat welds on them from replacing them)
c) Cut (upstream of brand new flex pipes) cats out, take to muffler place together with new flex pipes. Make custom bent pipe and have flex pipe welded on. Then install with 2 slip clamps to downpipe and existing downstream pipe. Comment. Probably better solution, dealing with standard diameter pipes. Hate to trash new flex pipes, though.
d) Cut square into bottom of cats. Break up and remove innards. Bent back and seal weld (cannot be done by official shop). Comment. Can the OEM cat be MIG welded? Or is it stainless steel, requiring TIG weld?
Without the cats, should I expect downstream O2 code? (B1S2, B2S2)? Do I need defoulers to get rid of the codes? "Electric" trick (soldering in a resister? If this works, any DIY write ups?)?
Any suggestions, comments, ideas?
Both cats.
I see the following options:
a) take downpipes off (plus flex plus cat). Take to muffler shop (they are not allowed to elimate cats on the car), have them cut out the cats and weld in bent pipe. Comment: LOTS of work and PITA to get the downpipes off.
b) Cut (downstream of brand new flex pipes) cats out, take to muffler place to make bent pipe. Try to get slip joint over flex pipe end and downstream end of pipe. Install. Comment: not sure if I can get something over the flex pipe ends, they are kind of larger (with fat welds on them from replacing them)
c) Cut (upstream of brand new flex pipes) cats out, take to muffler place together with new flex pipes. Make custom bent pipe and have flex pipe welded on. Then install with 2 slip clamps to downpipe and existing downstream pipe. Comment. Probably better solution, dealing with standard diameter pipes. Hate to trash new flex pipes, though.
d) Cut square into bottom of cats. Break up and remove innards. Bent back and seal weld (cannot be done by official shop). Comment. Can the OEM cat be MIG welded? Or is it stainless steel, requiring TIG weld?
Without the cats, should I expect downstream O2 code? (B1S2, B2S2)? Do I need defoulers to get rid of the codes? "Electric" trick (soldering in a resister? If this works, any DIY write ups?)?
Any suggestions, comments, ideas?
I'm make believe
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 17,587
From: In my head
The dp's arent hard to remove. You can undo all 3 bolts from under the car with a 13mm wrench. The only part thats a problem is if the o2's or sections are corroded together. In that case, you replace the o2 and/or cut the pipe with a sawzall and then add in a new pipe connector.
So grab a couple flexes and cats and take everything to someone that can weld. If you get the correct sizes, you dont need any more pipe
So grab a couple flexes and cats and take everything to someone that can weld. If you get the correct sizes, you dont need any more pipe
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 359
From: long island, ny
well, i had one cat replaced with a universal in a shady chopshop a year ago and its been fine. just blew the other one yesterday, doing the same thing tomorrow. its really the only way to go. you go with a direct fit and you're paying a ton of money, and the year of our car really doesn't warrant it.
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