I explained this in the other thread. they are the same casting, but the 2.7 is drilled for four bolt mains and has a smaller bore, as well as having piston squirters. it is not better to start with a 2.8. youd be better off starting with a 2.7 because of its internals

 

Are the 2.7t intake ports on the heads located in the same place as the 2.8 heads? If so its possible to mount the PES G2 Supercharger, also known as the Eaton M62.

Next question. One turbo or two? I am not sure but I was thinking running one turbo off both exhaust banks would be better because you would only have to run cooling plumbing for one turbo instead of two. Then again... I do realize the 2.7t is designed for two turbos, so is it better to stick with two?

 

use the thread you already started so we don't mess this one up more. but to answer your question, 2.8 heads are often used by 2.7 guys because the intake ports are physically larger. the heads are interchangeable. and one turbo is best. 034 has a single turbo kit for the 2.8

 

Well, I replaced the tensioner pulley and the plastic idler today. The noise has definitly decreased, but I think that the primary issue is the big idler that used to hold the viscus fan clutch. Aftermarket ones are like $360 and OEM is like $450 .

I'm looking into a different belt routing that wouldn't require using that pulley at all.

 

Made this wire harness tonight. I hope to flash the new ECU this weekend. Thanks to "BaseDrifter" for finding an ECU plug for me in a junkyard.

 

Looks good! What did you use to pull pins from the ECU plug? Or did you cut them off instead?

 

The pins on the 2.8 ECU plug you sent looks a little different from the 4.2 one, but it's actually pretty simple to pull the pins out of the plug. No cutting needed.

1. Remove the black cover on the back of the plug.




2. Remove the 2 purple retainers.







3. Remove the pin "blocks". These just slide out now that the retainers are out.




4. Slide out individual pins by pressing on the small metal tab to the side of each pin. The pins are numbered on the ends of each side of the "blocks."

 

Great. Looks just like the cluster plug pins. A lot easier to pull than the double tab style pins used on the relays. Those can be a real pain in the ***. One of the tabs actually worked its way through the side of the relay plug locking itself in position.

 

Still waiting on the fan pulley bearing to show up. In the mean time I got some other goodies.

While I was changing out the other two idler bearings on the serpentine, I noticed that one of the intake flap links was totally missing. I'm not real sure what happened here. I've heard of the them breaking, but there were no parts. Just gone. The Gruven links look pretty nice but rather steep at $90. I ordered up some M5 ball joints to make my own for ~$20. These also have the security pin and dust boots.




I also did some more work on my bench flashing harness. I added a switch to simulate the ignition switch and a ground for getting the ECU into boot mode.



Next up is to defeat the immobilizer and flash the modified S6 file.

 

Got my new intake linkage arms made today. Way stronger than the stock plastic ones and much cheaper than the Gruven alternative. Ordered the joints and dust seals from J.W. Winco, Inc. Website and Online Catalog. These joints also include safety locking pins to make sure that they will NOT fall off.

Part numbers:
Joints - 5NXF1/B $3.30 x 4 = $13.20
Dust seals - 12DXF0 $1.37 x 5 = $6.87
Total = $20.07

I ordered the fifth dust seal in case I tore one and it put me over the $20 minimum for free shipping. For the threaded portions to link them together, I went to my local ACE and bought 2 M5x0.8x40mm bolts and cut the heads off for $0.94. I used the nuts that came on the ball stud as the jam nuts and tightened everything down with some blue locktite just to be sure. Total investment $21.01.