Just don't let her see all the shoes your buddy's wife has in the garage where you did the swap....

 

I don't think she aspires to own that many shoes, but I've been wrong before.

 

I was experimenting with my car today on my way home from work. We're back into the rainy and cold season in the Seattle area so I've had the windows up and climate control on. I realized that my idle issues seemed to have gone away. The rev-hang is still there, but the random high idle at stop lights is gone with the climate control on. Pushing the "ECON" button as I approached a stop, would make the high idle come back. While it was idling high, pushing "ECON" again would brig the idle back to normal. I'm not sure why this happens, but there does seem to be a connection.

Still working on getting the second ECU to talk to Nefmoto...

 

^Have you done any work to the TB?

My high idle was caused by removing too much material inside the TB. I doubt that's your problem, but worth mentioning.

 

No work done to the throttle body, though it maybe the issue.

 

Got some time today to work on replacing that serpentine bearing that had gone bad. In the process, I took some pics of the radiator setup for those that had asked.

Top hose from outside:


Clearance from inside on the top hose:


Lower hose from outside:




Upper hose from inside after moving lock carrier forward:


It's still taken apart while I work on a power steering leak, so if there are any other angles you want to see, let me know.

 

This has got to be one of the most badass/interesting threads I've seen in a while. Did you need to do anything to the transmission to deal with all the additional power? I mean obviously it's faster, I'm guessing the low end is probably awesome as hell.

 

I'm not sure if I asked you this before, but with the immo-equipped ECU, does it turn off when you take the key out? As in, when connected to a vagcom, do you lose connection when you turn the key to off? I'm having really weird issues with my DBW swap and the ECU not turning off with the key is the only symptom I get consistently. I've read about people having weird issues stemming from the ECU not turning off when swapping to an immo-equipped ECU, solved by a diode between the ECU relay and ECU.

 

The ART V8 that I am using is actually the last of the DBW engines that do not include an immobilizer. Once I make the wiring changes to run the flash-able AWN ECU, I will need to include the aforementioned diode to make the immobilizer happy and actually code out the immobilizer. I didn't think that any NA B5's came with immobilizer. Are you running an immobilizer equipped engine/ECU from a later generation?

Thanks! Nothing done to the transmission other than the upgraded clutch. I try not to be too hard on 3rd, which is the weak link in the 01A 5-speed. If it breaks, I'll probably work on sourcing an 01E 6-speed. The instant torque is like nothing else. It's getting into the colder, possible snow months of the PNW and I'm excited to see what kind of animal this is in the snow.

 

Dude, the 4.2 is cool and all. But what about that 13B you built??

I used to have a 91 RX7.