40V in a B5? Yes please.
^ Thanks for the suggestion, but I can't access the fuel measuring blocks with VCDS Lite.
I got a new code this morning:
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation
That's right. The idiot who replaced my cam chain tensioner pads had the Bank 1 intake cam off by one tooth.
Runs a lot better now.
Just a couple more things to address and I promise I'll post a video.
I got a new code this morning:
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation
That's right. The idiot who replaced my cam chain tensioner pads had the Bank 1 intake cam off by one tooth.
Runs a lot better now. Just a couple more things to address and I promise I'll post a video.
Another small update: The check engine light was actually off for the first time today. I drove her to the petrol station to fill up on some more of that premium drank. Of course it came back on the way out. Now I'm getting codes for the rear O2 sensors. I'll clear them in the morning and see if they come back (crosses fingers).
I got my cruise control back. On the DBC cars the cruise control is actuated by a small vacuum pump located under the ABS pump. The DBW cars just use the ECU, so I had to run new wires to the control stalk, brake and clutch switches. The clutch one doesn't actually do anything at the moment because the ECU still thinks it's hooked to a slush box. Using the clutch while CC is engaged is a good test of the rev limiter...
For whatever reason, the ECU will not accept the recode from auto to manual transmission. I may need to send it out to someplace to have them recode it.
The only other thing I haven't quite figured out is the oil temp gauge. The 30v has a small thermal resistor that threads into the block, whereas the 40v has the one on the bottom of the pan. They don't like to talk to each other. Thoughts?
I got my cruise control back. On the DBC cars the cruise control is actuated by a small vacuum pump located under the ABS pump. The DBW cars just use the ECU, so I had to run new wires to the control stalk, brake and clutch switches. The clutch one doesn't actually do anything at the moment because the ECU still thinks it's hooked to a slush box. Using the clutch while CC is engaged is a good test of the rev limiter...
For whatever reason, the ECU will not accept the recode from auto to manual transmission. I may need to send it out to someplace to have them recode it.
The only other thing I haven't quite figured out is the oil temp gauge. The 30v has a small thermal resistor that threads into the block, whereas the 40v has the one on the bottom of the pan. They don't like to talk to each other. Thoughts?
The oil temp issue is pretty simple, you just need an '00+ cluster. The oil temp pins are different between the harnesses so it's just a matter or running a wire from the correct pin to the cluster. Maybe you could even re-pin the old wire if there's enough leeway.
Or you could do what I did and find a place for the old sensor and wire it up, though I don't know if that's possible on the 40v.
Or you could do what I did and find a place for the old sensor and wire it up, though I don't know if that's possible on the 40v.
The oil temp issue is pretty simple, you just need an '00+ cluster. The oil temp pins are different between the harnesses so it's just a matter or running a wire from the correct pin to the cluster. Maybe you could even re-pin the old wire if there's enough leeway.
Or you could do what I did and find a place for the old sensor and wire it up, though I don't know if that's possible on the 40v.
Or you could do what I did and find a place for the old sensor and wire it up, though I don't know if that's possible on the 40v.
I did try repinning it, but the type of sensor seems to speak different data. The original is just a resistor, but the new one is more complex than that.
I know it's not a video (Ban me Chris and you'll never see it
). Here are a couple of pics for you guys.
For cooling, I'm currently using a slim pusher and was able to fit the original A/C fan as a puller.






Tight Fit!

Just because I like the size of these brakes so much. I have a red G2 paint kit waiting to go on the calipers once I get the rears squared away.
). Here are a couple of pics for you guys.For cooling, I'm currently using a slim pusher and was able to fit the original A/C fan as a puller.






Tight Fit!

Just because I like the size of these brakes so much. I have a red G2 paint kit waiting to go on the calipers once I get the rears squared away.
I always thought the firewall was kinda pointless in the A4. Without that firewall, there would plenty room for a V8 as it could've been mounted farther back. They should've considered installing the battery in the trunk somewhere.
The secondary firewall doesn't really matter for engine placement. The front CV shafts come out just behind the bellhousing and the engine placement is really determined by where the front wheels are.
What I still haven't figured out is how this V8 can be that much longer than a 1.8T. Still four cylinders in a row...
What I still haven't figured out is how this V8 can be that much longer than a 1.8T. Still four cylinders in a row...
techincally v engines are an extra .5 cylinder long, so yours is 4.5 cylinders long which adds to the overall length. that combined with all the accesories, it can make a big diiference


