I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the crank bolt off... I'm assuming it's a reverse thread, isn't it? Thanks ahead.

 

I am not sure but I would suggest a Impact Wrench or a big *** breaker bar. I had to use a breaker bar with a 6ft extension on my Integra and my friend and I were jumping on it and it cracked the bolt loose. My guess is its just like every other bolt. If it spins the same direction its tightened how would the bolt come loose. Don't spin that unless your valves are not compressed (not timed).

Question?? Why do you need to take that off? Are you changing the gasket behind it??

 

I'm going to change the crank seal. My breaker bar is too short, tried extending it with a cheater pipe... it's not happening... what did you rig up to get 6ft?

 

The crank bolt is not a reverse thread. I had to use a long breaker bar like russcuss36 said. I think I used a 5' section of steel pipe. Once you get the bolt off, the crank gear comes off easily. I drilled 2 small self tapping screws in the old crank seal to pull it out.

 

Impact gun ftw... also make sure your using a 12pt socket and not a 6pt thats to big.

 

As part of the timing belt PLUS routine I did two days ago, I did the crank seal. Had the same WTF issues with the bolt. Solution I found online was a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum bar stock of appropriate dimensions modified using the crank pulley as a template. You use it as a brace to hold the crank while you use a breaker bar extended to a long distance with a pipe (4 feet was my setup). I used this writeup for a VW TDI as a guide. Good times for sure. The bar stock now goes in the 'special tool' drawer of the tool box, labeled as 'Audi Crank Bolt Remover'!

 

Whooo, thanks for all your help guys! Just got the damn thing off, took three guys and a 3' cheater pipe slipped onto my 2' breaker bar. The previous owner of this car must never have touched any maintenance work, cause this car is ugly!

Valve cover gaskets, head gaskets, valley pan gasket, all leaking. One of the valley pan bolts wasn't even on tight.

Got my work cut out for me. Going to change all those gaskets, upper and lower oil pan gasket too, gotta replace maybe a dozen or so bolts that rusted up (some I had to cut), timing belt, t-stat, water pump, take the power steering pump apart and see if I can't find out where it's leaking from- maybe I can salvage it... there was sludge/congealed oil on the underside of my valve covers (but not so much on the camshafts, curiously). Going to take a look at the oil pump, see if there's sludge in there too... so far, cracked the plastic on the driverside cam position sensor, cracked the coil pack trying to take off the intake @#$!, cut a vacuum hose leading to the powersteering pump, found a cracked breather hose, leaking engine mount...

I'm no expert on cars, but everyone's help on this forum gave me enough info and confidence to get on this job, so, thanks like crazy. Did a whole lot of reading on all of the leads I got from here, and I'm positive I can get this done now. I'll post some pictures of the pistons and cam later, I'm not sure if the wear on them is normal or not, I'll appreciate any info there, too. Thanks again guys.