Come on guys, is this all you've got. Information about other bigger more costly turbos? Give me information about the t3/t4's! lol.

 

I was looking at the tial 38mm wastegate. The bar goes from .3 to a full 1.0 bar. What should i get? I havent done the rods yet and dont plan to for a little while. can i get the 1.0 bar and a MBC or should i go smaller?

 

lol a GT45 on a 1.8t? you better build the engine to rev to 15k in order to have any powerband at all.

i really dont have much info on t3/4s for you because i havnt done any research on them. i knew i was using a garret from the start, ive finally settled on a GT3076r, so i concentrated on those. that and 80% of the people out there swapping out turbos are using GT series.

A/R is a ratio of the exhaust discharge area vs the distance from the center of turbine wheel to the center of the cross sectional area. Smaller A/R housing has faster spool up. Bigger A/R housing has less back pressure, more flow for the top end.

Wheel "trim" refers to the squared ratio of the smaller diameter divided by the larger diameter times 100. Generally, the larger the trim number the more flow the wheel has.

heres some good reading (which is where i stole that info from )... http://www.ztechz.net/id4.html

 

it very easy, you can either plug both the feed and return. Or just run a dummy-tube like I did, which just recirculates the coolant.

A t3/t4 is not the same turbo as a t3/t04. In my opinion, you will want a t3/t4. i have a brand new Garett 50 trim t3/t4 with a .48a/r and 360degree thrust bearing, that i ran for literally ten minutes before the engine ceased. let me know if you want it, as I will now be running the 35r.

If you want better top end and later spool, you would go with the .63a/r. But in my opinion, the .48a/r is a better match for everyday driving with the stock 1.8t. You will still make plenty of power and it will spool prior to 4grand. With a engine that isnt designed to rev past 6500rpm, i dont know why you would go with a later spooling turbo.

 

The 50 trim is a T3/T04. A T3/T4 and T3/T04 are the same thing, people just tend to leave out the 0.

From the Full-race web site

 

So i guess the question now is should i go .48 or .63?

 

i agree the .48 is probably what you want. your not going to be reving to 7500 normaly if this is a daily driver. keep your power band in the lower rpms.

 

What will this limit my HP to? I was just thinking, i can ask for many of the things i need for christmas and birthdays and such. I will still have most of the money i've saved if i can do it that way. Would it be worth it to go with new rods and pistons (depending on the cylinder wear) keeping the stock size of the pistons and go with a lower compression ratio. Then id be able to run at higher RPM's. Even if i could just get buying the turbo out of the way that would just about buy what i need to do the pistons and rods. I can do those myself, so i wont be paying labor. Then would it be sufficient to get the .63? Or will the .48 still be able to put out about 300 awhp? This is what im shooting for.

 

Also this will be a daily driver. I dont want to be partially boosting all the time though ya know? I am setting my eyes on an apexi ebc though. But you guys definately know more than i do so dont be afraid to yell at me lol. (or type at me.....)

 

im going to guess that the .48 would get you to your goal but im not 100%. the stock pistons can handle 500+hp so theres no need to change them unless your increasing displacement or want to lower the compression. lowering compression doesnt let you rev higher, it lets you safely run more PSI. but if you lower it too much on a small engine like this, when you dont have any boost its going to be a dog. if you go lower then like 9.0:1 you will almost NEED boost in order to drive. theres a trade off for everything. i say just throw some new rods in there and call it a day. also if you do this, nothing is going to change if you get the .63. lowering the C/R isnt going to make it spool faster (it would actualy be slower because the lower rpms would take longer to get thru untill you hit boost)

remember higher compression is good for naturally aspirated engines (generally) but bad for turbos. lower compression allows you to run higher PSI, but without boost the car doesnt have much power. so its a balance. you dont want to be on the boost all the time so you need an engine that has some ***** without the turbo, but a lower ratio will give you better performance while on the boost.

all of that is somewhat irrelevant because your not talking about a huge turbo that can push 40psi. leave the compression stock and just do your rods and piston rings.

btw about 6 months ago 300whp was my goal too