Yeah haha, Great information, thanks. This is just my starting goal, haha. This is from stock to 300 whp. Big jump. So Basically other than my rods the engine should be fine to handle this turbo. Aside from the things needed, injectors, MAF, etc. Also Back to the wastegate srping, what bar should i go. Should i go high and use either an mbc or ebc?

 

well with your rods already done and a t3 manifold you luckily will have the ability to just drop in up to a GT30 + retune in the future if (or when) you get tired of that turbo for alot more power. i dont really have info on the WG question so il leave that to someone else. im going with a 44mm v band tial wg and it comes with a few different springs so i can screw around with the settings on my own.

 

Ok, let me see if i can help you here.

Yes, the T3/T4 is the same thing as a T3/t04 like Mike said earlier. They are basically a T3 turbine wheel and housing to decrease lag on the much larger T4 compressor wheels. The T04e's are much more efficient at higher psi levels making them more suited for our engines (running 18-24psi daily) where the T04b's are lower pressure turbos that move alot of air at lower psi (made for Big V8's only running 5-10psi and needing to move a crap load of air).

As for the bearings, they are journal bearing. This means they will spool slower and more gradual than a dbb (dual ball bearing aka gt) setup. This will make the make it easier on the engine since it has a smoother tq curve than the gt turbos making the same power. However, the drawback is a slight increase in lag and they draw more energy which makes slightly less powerful at the same lb/min airflow vs a dbb of the same size. There is also 280 and 360 thrust bearings. The 360 provide better cooling since they move oil better and will prolong the life of the turbo. They are usually a $50 price increase.

Coolent lines. Not being water cooled isnt that big of a deal, just means you need to idle the car before shutting it down so the oil doesnt leave carbon deposits in the turbo. Makes a turbo timer a good ideal. As said before, you can just plug them with something like a bolt or just connect the feed and return and it will just loop itself.

When it comes to the housing, a .48 a/r will suit you fine. It will spool about 500rpms faster but will sacrafisce some top end power. It will also make about 10-20whp less at the same psi level than the .63. So if you are looking at making 300-320whp, the .48 will be fine and will do that on a stock engine with pump gas daily no problem. A .63 will be able to do that with a couple less psi.

Also since i havent seen it posted here yet, there are a few different trims to the t3t4.
46trim - not used much anymore but will spool the fastest and should be good for 280-310awhp
50trim - best and most efficient of them all. This turbo is the most capabale of making high power and run up to and past 30psi with the right setup and fuel. This would be the one you want.
57trim - Better suited for a honda motor only pushing it to about 15psi tops. Not a good match to our engine since it will surge above 20psi.
60trim - This is the biggest of them and will have an increase in lag. Moves alot more air than the 50trim (47lb/min vs 54lb/min) but still isnt used much since it isnt as efficient as the 50trim.

Now for revving. Just because the stock limit is like 6800 doesnt mean thats where you can surpass. The stock head is easily good to 7500rpms and some even push it to 8k daily. With most BT tunes, the rev limit will be raised to either 7300 or 7500rpms and this will make the .63 a little more useful since it will make power all the way out there.

if i missed anything, let me know

 

Thanks alot cincy that just about summed everything up i needed to pick out witch turbo i want. Can you go a little in depth on the whole wastegate thing. Do you know anything about these? I was thinking of going to the Teil 38mm wastegate but im not sure of what spring to go with and what bar to go with. Im definately going to go with the 50 trim. am still debating on whether or not to go with the .48 or .63. Will probably go with the .48 but any further insight on any of this will be helpful.

 

You will be fine with a 38mm wastegate, people use them on even bigger turbos since we run enough psi to make them work. If this was a honda forum you would need something bigger. The reason is that they run very large turbos and only small amounts of psi. This makes the boost creep if the wastegate is to small since it cant bleed off the extra exhaust flow. SInce we will be using more exhaust flow, the smaller wg will be good. Also the Tial is a great wastegate to use. The turbonetics and turbosmart will also fit in the same location if you can find a deal on those also.

As for spring, the higher you go, the faster the turbo will spool. Keep in mind that the lowest you can boost will be the psi of the spring. A 1bar spring will be good for a 1.8t running 16-24psi daily on a 50trim.

As for the housing, if you dont plan on making above 350whp and running over 26psi, the .48 would be the better choice. It will spool up faster and probably make it a better daily driver for someone that has more stop and go driving.

 

Realistically though, how many people want to rev up to 3800ish everyday? This is just my .02 but I think a mid-spooling turbo is the best since in true daily driving I never even hit boost, if I'm lucky I'll see 5lbs. I just think if I drove my BAT everyday I'd want to keep out of boost range if I could. Maybe this is just my personal preference.

 

If you guys didn't know, Tial is coming out with a brand new 38mm wg which will have a Vband like their 44mm wg. It is also much smaller. This is the wg we are looking at using on the twin scroll manifold we have plans on having done.


Here is a picture if you haven't seen it yet.

 

bout time people used a 38mm on a twin scroll. They cost enough already and using a pair of $375 44mm is just nuts. And is it me or is the outlet bigger on the new MS-V?

As for driving, dont know how slow you really want to rev to stay below 3800rpm. If you want to conserve gas, all you have to do is give it part throttle and you wont build as much or any psi. Also keep in mind it easier to get good gas milage with a BT setup since you can control psi better with your foot instead of a ko3 or 4 spooling when you touch the peddle

 

Haha wow, i wish i could like send you guys money, this information is priceless. Also ive been thinking and if i dont do my rods (for a little while atleast) what would be a safe boost pressure. I see that the 38mm, with the 1 bar, is good for down to 16 psi. Could i run 16 psi safely with this setup and not break the stocker rods? Also i want room to expand once i get some engine work done. So i might just go with the .63.

 

I don't TRY to stay below boost, it just seems my driving style never gets there. I mean, on the highway, yeah, I might get on it or on the country roads, but if we're talking about a daily commuter that has redlights at least every 1/4 mile I know I wouldnt rev that high through every gear. Some people do redline 1-3 gears from one redlight to another but that's just retarted IMO. I'd rather have a mid-spooling turbo that has boost at 4k but I know I got decent top-end power as well, since I will hit over 20psi on the highway more often than on traffic. The powerband is more efficient in that sense. A .63 is better balanced, doesn't go too low end, but doesn't take days to spool either. Of course this is just me, and everyone has different driving styles or goals, just a thought aside from the .48. Of course, if the OP is pedal-happy 24/7, then the smaller housing would be more apt.