Turbo Problems - Troubleshooting help needed
#11
i have near on same problem, ive just had a dyno done and it only came out at 180bhp, even after revo 1 cat bak system, cone air filter, front mount forge intercooler so shud be looking over 200bhp at least, and tech guy said there is a problem with boost, poss leak etc, had diagnostics done next day lots of codes etc new lambda sensor needed, and may i add only bought new one 2 months ago but was non gen so will buy bosch next time, but he did say the turbo needs to come off for inspection and the rattle that is present after revving engine is prob the problem, that has been there few months now and notice power loss, is it a new turbo job or can it be fixed any comments please.
#12
my situation is as follows.. hopefully this will help you out? turns out there isnt a problem with my actuator arm, rather the flap on the exhaust side of the turbo.. it is loose and stays open at all times.. it rattles just like you are saying upon deceleration, however i am still making "ok boost" depending on gear and RPMs between 13-17 psi.. somedays its much more consistent and powerful somedays it isnt.. just depends on how the flap is working and sitting at the moment i guess.. it could be that the flap is broken to the point where the actuator arm is no longer opening or closing the flap..
all of this being said, the easiest way of knowing the situation in its entirety, you should disconnect your CAT from the turbo if you can, and get a little mirror and look inside the turbo, and see how things are.. cause when i was putting in my test pipe i took a look and could clearly see that the flap was rattling cause it was very loose and was not staying shut, it was staying open all the time.. but my car still boosts.. it almost sounds like yours is possibly not moving at all? which would mean the flap is broken off from the arm.. but im not sure without you being able to see it? if you can get to the turbo and check it out with a mirror i think youll have a much better insight of whats going on in there.. but even though these are your issues it sounds like a new turbo is what you and i both need..
all of this being said, the easiest way of knowing the situation in its entirety, you should disconnect your CAT from the turbo if you can, and get a little mirror and look inside the turbo, and see how things are.. cause when i was putting in my test pipe i took a look and could clearly see that the flap was rattling cause it was very loose and was not staying shut, it was staying open all the time.. but my car still boosts.. it almost sounds like yours is possibly not moving at all? which would mean the flap is broken off from the arm.. but im not sure without you being able to see it? if you can get to the turbo and check it out with a mirror i think youll have a much better insight of whats going on in there.. but even though these are your issues it sounds like a new turbo is what you and i both need..
#13
after looking at the pictures that the original poster has put up, his problem was the same exact thing that mine was, my flap looked just like that, and the actuator arm wasnt working with the flap like its supposed to since it was broken and almost disconnected.. im not sure how he fixed his problem but i fixed mine by putting in a K03s that was in really good shape and now my car runs like a champ.. it fixed everything.. honestly if youre havingthe same problem, the best way to fix it that i know is find a cheaper used turbo (i bought another k03 off of a kid on vortex which was in ok shape but not as good as my mechanics k03s) so i got that for 100 bucks from him and put it in and its like night and day, my car runs like it always should have and sounds amazing.. honestly id look into getting another turbo thats in good shape to put in.. i was scared initially cause i thought it was gunna cost me a ton of money.. but 100 for the turbo, install took 3 hours.. and i got inspected, oil change, fluids topped off including all new coolant and tranny fluid.. for right around 500.. i hope this helps
#14
thanks for quick reply im yet to take cat off and have a look how bad it is but when i do ill post it on here to show, im expecting it to look the same as the original posters pictures and you say yours was the same as well so must just be how they go after 10 odd yrs, i was looking in to a ko3s before this happened so ill def be on the look out for one now thats the best option upgrade for my car, have u looked into ko4 ? ive heard there bit more hassle software etc ? so what mods u got and what sort of power is your car running ?
#15
have near on same problem, ive just had a dyno done and it only came out at 180bhp, even after revo 1 cat bak system, cone air filter, front mount forge intercooler so shud be looking over 200bhp at least, and tech guy said there is a problem with boost, poss leak etc, had diagnostics done next day lots of codes etc new lambda sensor needed, and may i add only bought new one 2 months ago but was non gen so will buy bosch next time, but he did say the turbo needs to come off for inspection and the rattle that is present after revving engine is prob the problem, that has been there few months now and notice power loss, is it a new turbo job or can it be fixed any comments please.
He gave me a few options (stock K03, using what is good, but replacing all essentials parts for a virtually new turbo, upgrading to a custom improve and optimized turbo to my desired characteristics (custom turbine and compressor wheel, flow optimized housing, precision calibrations; that's what I went for with great results)
Give Nick a call if you are interested in a solid solution (vs. Chinese or ebay turbo - I have a brand new one still sitting at Nick's that you can have for cheap (piece of s....))
Email: turboconcepts@charter.net
Tel: 734-954-9940
#16
Sounds like the exact situation I was in. A friend hooked me up with Nick from TurboConcepts (has been doing nothing but turbos sind 30 years; he has probably forgotten more regarding turbos than anyone else KNOWS).
He gave me a few options (stock K03, using what is good, but replacing all essentials parts for a virtually new turbo, upgrading to a custom improve and optimized turbo to my desired characteristics (custom turbine and compressor wheel, flow optimized housing, precision calibrations; that's what I went for with great results)
Give Nick a call if you are interested in a solid solution (vs. Chinese or ebay turbo - I have a brand new one still sitting at Nick's that you can have for cheap (piece of s....))
Email: turboconcepts@charter.net
Tel: 734-954-9940
He gave me a few options (stock K03, using what is good, but replacing all essentials parts for a virtually new turbo, upgrading to a custom improve and optimized turbo to my desired characteristics (custom turbine and compressor wheel, flow optimized housing, precision calibrations; that's what I went for with great results)
Give Nick a call if you are interested in a solid solution (vs. Chinese or ebay turbo - I have a brand new one still sitting at Nick's that you can have for cheap (piece of s....))
Email: turboconcepts@charter.net
Tel: 734-954-9940
Stavros, what did you end up doing about your problem?
#17
thanks for quick reply im yet to take cat off and have a look how bad it is but when i do ill post it on here to show, im expecting it to look the same as the original posters pictures and you say yours was the same as well so must just be how they go after 10 odd yrs, i was looking in to a ko3s before this happened so ill def be on the look out for one now thats the best option upgrade for my car, have u looked into ko4 ? ive heard there bit more hassle software etc ? so what mods u got and what sort of power is your car running ?
i havnt dyno'd my car ever, but as far as mods go, im running APR 91 for the AEB, a 2.5" test pipe into a 2.25" Borla resonated cat back exhaust.. K&N intake, forge 007 dv..
all this power is estimated by myself, and my car runs pretty strong and the OEM clutch slips in the higher gears when i put the power down so i know its decent power.. but i would say with the APR tune, and exhaust setup and such im prolly around 215-220 crank horsepower, and maybe 250-255 ft-lbs torque..
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afruss2007
Audi A4
12
10-20-2005 05:59 AM