Alright didnt see your post you must have posted it right before me, so if your boosting at 10psi something is def wrong boost related. I believe at 10psi your ecu will send itself into limp mode. 7-8 i believe is stock so atleast your reading that now. I would think your problem would lie in somewhere in your boosting system,

 

Building a boostleak tester costs like 14 bucks and it can rule out boostleaks. If you chose to ignore that, then consider these ideas. IF your A/F gauge isnt a wideband, then its not giving you true readings. Read this to see what I'm talking about cause it helped explain the difference between wideband and narrowband http://www.boostsource.com/?p=131 Also, I agree with Brad that looking at your fueling system may not be such a bad thing. Replacing your fuel filter is always a good idea with these cars. Also, if you were running 10psi, that will most likely not put you in limp, in my opinion. Going to the dealership isn't always a bad thing. I've had to take my car there for them to tell me exactly what was wrong with it. I don't let them do the work, I just find out exactly what's causing my problem and then I get on the forum and ask how to fix it in my own garage so don't rule out going there just to find out what the problem is...it might save you some headaches.

 

ok so im going to apologize to everyone now for flipping out about a leak being somewhere.. the check valve on the top of the Air box had a hole in it so i put some plastic rezen stuff on it to seal it till i can find a new one. and checked it it dont leak anymore.. i also pulled the MAF and cleaned it whith the CC MAF cleaner spray... took a trip to AUTOZONE to see if they carryed the Check valve and noone in my area does.. on the way home.. the CEL came back on.. car was running like **** (as if the MAF was ******* up. loss of power really gittery acting funny) so now im gonna pull the MAF again spray it again and let dry double check connections.. ( the ******* clip that holds the MAF plug broke on me. so im gonna zip tie it down to insure good connection.. and we will go from there.. if you guys have any other ideas again.. let me know..

p.s i also added lucas Injector cleaner to my tank just incase.. and the Fuel filter looks like it was changed not that long ago but it will be getting changed again in like a week or two with the dealer i got the car from does the tune up..

 

Don't get the check valve from Audi, most VW dealers have then about $15 bucks cheaper. If you have time to wait for shipping ECS carries them the cheapest! My car issue was the same thing check valve right above the air box and a MAF!

 

yea i cant seem to find the check valve anywhere.. but i found them on ebay cheap.. like 10-15 bucks..

Check valves- http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories

i found MAFS on ebay cheap to like 40 or 50 bucks.. so i might order one of them to..

i do have a ?? about the VAG COM.. is this a good one to get?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VAG-C...motiveQ5fTools

i know nothing about the VAG COMS so i have no idea what the hell im looking at.. if there is one that someone swears by please link me to where to buy it.. im getting ready to order a bunch of parts from ebay tonight so i can get rid of this ******* CEL...

im pretty sure right now that my CEL is due to my MAF now that ive narrowed down the leak and fixed it..

 

ok guys heres a break down on what ive figured out.

1. i was wrong and a good few of you were right lol (im sorry).. there were some leaks.. there was a hole in the check valve on top of the Air box the line i ran for my boost guage was leaking--so i patched the leaks on both the check valve and the boost line.

2. the plug for the MAF the clip to hold it down is broke so when you kick into it it gets a lil spuddery and then acts fine (due to the plug vibrating and not being held down) im gonna fix that with a Zip tie lol (its under the Air box so its ok :-P)

3. the car now boosts up alot quicker (it works like this now put foot to floor boost spools to 7-8 and like 1sec after it hits top boost you get pushed into the seat lol and away you go lol. i can also now hear the recirculating valve open (all the windows up no radio on you can barley hear sometimes a slight flapping pshhh sound)

4. i have an exhaust leak lol the flex pipe is broke (kinda looks like someone bottomed out on it a couple times lol) its just a like pin hole leak..


but that is all ive found out tonight.. we will see how it all works out after it sits over night and go for a long drive tomorrow. if the CEL comes back on ill be back to banging my head against the ground lol..

one other thing when you hook up an AIR fuel gauge which O2 sensor do you run it to (the one closest to the turbo is the one its on now, the one you can see plane as day under the hood not the one thats kinda down against the firewall)... and im a lil confused on this WIDE band A/F gauge thing whats the diff? i have a Sunpro A/F gauge from AutoZone and it dont bounce around non stop (like a disco ball).. it for the most part stays in the IDEAL area..

AGAIN I APOLOGIZE TO YOU GUYS AND I THANK ALL OF YOU FOR YOUR HELP! AND PATIENCE!

 

hahaha good job man sounds like you figured everything out. Also keep in mind that even if you clean the maf, doesn't mean it isn't fried. Are you running a stock air filter in there? anything oiled will fry the maf

 

yeap stock Air filter.. like i said the whole car is stock..

 

Check Valve- http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-...a;Ve/ES259630/ From what I've been told always get the black/grey one they are updated from the org. on the car.

MAF- I got mine at Advanced Auto for $100ish and could return if that wasn't what was wrong, and has a warranty

 

If MAF is fried beyond repair, cleaning won't help much.
Bite the bullet and get a new MAF. As the other said if it doesn't work, can return to Autozone.