Ok this is my first post on here. I normally research before I ask a question but I was hoping for a somewhat fast responce.
I've got the opprotunity to pick up a 98' A4 for very cheap, the only thing is that it has a blown motor. I have done several honda motor swaps, but I know this is gonna be completely different. Can anyone tell me somewhat what the difficulty is going to be. or if there are any special things that have to be done or to look for. I would really like to pick this up because its still in such good shape.
Oh and its a manual also if that is important.

thanks in advance for any and all help / advice

 

If you're swapping with the same motor it isn't a problem. Don't try to modify, then you'll run into more problems than you will ever want.

 

just make sure you get a engine that goes with the 98 audi. check cherry-auto.com for prices on a used engine. yeah make sure the engine can be used with a manual tranny cuz you dont wanna spend 2-3k ona engine that wont work. make sure you get new engine mounts, use the rs4 ones i hear they are great. i might need to swap a engine too so ive be looking into things. while you are at it you might as well get a new clutch and maybe flywheel cuz you will be in there and save you time and money down the road.

 

motor swap or motor replacement?

if you are trying to put a differen engine into the car.. just dont do it.. if you still feel like its something you want to tackle.. pull out the check book and we will explain

 

Not a swapits a motor replacement. Do I have to pull the tranny also or can I let it sit. What motors work? its a 98 2.8, not the quatro. I don't plan on doing any modifications to it, gonna keep as a DD as I have a 400hp honda I'm at the track with. great advice so far keep it coming.

 

How is the motor blown? I mean, is it rebuildable, or do you really need to replace it?

 

As cstarky15 said, check the clutch and throughout bearing
while you're in there. Also do the timing belt job if it's a used
engine.

 

You should be able to drop any engine in, which is the same engine code as the existing engine. A couple tips from my motor-swapping experience (which having done them yourself, you're probably aware of, but still...):

Before the replacement engine goes in, check everything and change anything suspect or any wear component that is tough to access when the engine is installed. Seals, hoses, sensors, etc, are all great to do before the engine goes in. On my Z, I did the PCV valves on the twin turbo engine before it went in and it took ten minutes. With the engine in, even an experienced Z mechanic can plan on an hour, and a novice to the job can plan for up to three hours.

Tape and label every hose and harness connection. When I do these jobs, I use a colored electrical tape, and if I unplug a harness connection, I label both the harness plug and the engine-side connection "1". The next one is labeled "2", on each side of the connection, and so forth. Same for hoses. Then, when the engine is out and sitting next to the replacement motor, I look at a given labeled connection on the motor that came out (say, number 23), find the same corresponding part on the new engine, and label it "23". Then when the new motor is in, reconnecting everything is only a matter of matching numbers up. You can't believe how much time this will save, especially if you haven't swapped a motor on that particular type of car before. The labelling takes a little time, but it makes things so much easier when you're done.

As cstarky15 said and Rob_B reiterated, check the whole clutch assembly - honestly, you may as well put a new clutch in the car since it's apart. You might look at your clutch now and decide it's got life left, but you'll be angry if it dies in 8 months, when you have to rip everything apart again. Do it now, spend the extra money, and have the peace of mind knowing that it's brand-new and good for a long time.

Finally, I've pulled longitudinally-mounted engines with the transmissions still attached and it's kind of a pain in the ***. I find that even if it's a little more work, it's easier overall to remove the transmission first. It's also less nerve-wracking, since you're not hoisting a 700 lb monstrosity out of the car and hanging it 8 feet in the air to clear the front of the car. Drop the trans first, and you lift with less height when you remove the engine, not to mention you have less mass coming out that you have to watch to keep it from hitting the car on the way out.

Also, while the new engine is out and being prepped, clean the hell out of it - you'll be happier with the look of it, and it'll make it easier to pinpoint the source of any leaks that may occur either because of the swap or later on in its life.

That's just my take based on the pulls I've done - take it for what it's worth.

 

Thanks for all the advice upstate. I also just found out that he already pulled the motor o it and its a quattro. I found another motor for $985. So this whole thing is only gonna cost me about 2k