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Various Short to Ground codes and under 3k rpm chatter

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  #1  
Old 07-06-2010, 05:22 AM
kbulava85's Avatar
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Default Various Short to Ground codes and under 3k rpm chatter

Hey guys, I've done a search on this topic and came up with various answers, but nothing much confirmed at least for my make and model. Hoping someone may have had a similar instance and can offer some helpful advice, apologizing in advance if I've missed the answer elsewhere here.


I've been dealing with these issues the last week or so. Recently my 2000 A6 2.7T 6SPD has been running like crap and had the check engine light on. It run particularly crappy between 2-3,000 rpms. I notice if I stay above 3,000 the problem "Appears" to be better. However, there is still no acceleration like it used to. I "hear" the turbos when i am driving through neighborhoods and the sound bounces off the houses and such. However it's as if they don't pull at all, that combined with a hesitant or sputtering feel for anything under 3,000rpms....sure makes it a crappy drive for what used to be a very enjoyable drive.

I should also mention that I have 210k on the car. Timing belt was done at 180k. Trans could use a rebuild (typical 1-2, and 2-3 collar issues-has been like that for the last 15k I'm used to it now), but the clutch is solid and doesn't rev higher or slip at all, just chatters and shutters under 3,000k. I've tested all the o2 sensors at their harness with a multimeter all were under 20k Ohms(I've read that if they're under 20 they're good?) (14, 15, 16 and 11(?)), removed and cleaned the hell out of the throttle body and mass air flow sensor with alcohol and appropriate cleaners for each, reset the computer. It improved it a bit, but the CEL came back on so I broke down and bought a scanner and here are the code....

P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input
P0134 - O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 No Activity Detected
P1115 - O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Short to Ground
P1117 - O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Short to Ground
P1119 - O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Short to Ground
P1121 - O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Short to Ground
P1140 - Bank2-Sensor2 Internal Resistance too High
P1425 - Tank Vent.Valve Short to Ground
P1530 - Camshaft Control Circuit Short to ground

I'm guessing all these "Short to Ground" issues could have something to do with the common ground, seems to make sense in my eyes. So my next step is to check under the battery tray (so I have read). Then possibly the Crankshaft sensor? I've been told that if the sensor isn't entirely broken that could affect the chattering that I'm feeling under 3k. This info came from someone not Audi familiar, but it seems to make sense to me at least a little.

Would anyone else have any helpful suggestions as to what may be causing these codes or chattering?

Thanks again to everyone.
 
  #2  
Old 07-06-2010, 06:48 AM
kbulava85's Avatar
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so i removed the battery/tray and disconnecting reconnecting and cleaning the ground connection and everything up in that area, as well as unplugging and replugging and spray connector cleaner on the ecu's connections...everything seemed clean before hand but just to be sure i did again.

Started the car up, no CEL yet - however! I connected the scanner and it showed just one code immediately

Which was the P1425 - Tank vent valve short to ground.

Idle is still very rough.

Additionally, before I did this cleaning and disconnecting, etc....I scanned and one new code showed.

P1472 - EVAP Emission Contr.LDP Circ Short to Ground


I'm not really sure where to go from here? Anyone?
 
  #3  
Old 07-06-2010, 09:20 AM
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Default Similar problems after sitting

Hello there, wish I had some answers for you, but instead have similar issues to report! My car was in a collision with a guard rail (seized front brakes) and sat for more than a year while I repaired it myself. During and after repair it ran fine. Now 2 weeks later I find myself with a serious chatter between 2-3k rpm. Mine gets progressively worse as I add throttle input. If I go above half throttle it chatters every time. I thought clutch slippage, but it was just replaced with a stage 3 carbon/kevlar with RS4 pressure plate and light weight flywheel 10k ago. Has been rock solid since. This all started when I dropped to 4th gear doing about 60-65 the other day to pass an old lady clogging the passing lane on the highway. The CEL blinks at me when I get on it hard and the chattering occurs. I have 4 codes, altough all of mine are different than yours, but have similarities. One thing to keep in mind is when I changed the clutch I took out the front cats and moved the rear O2 sensors to behind the secondary cats. Have had issues with codes occuring since. SO! My 4 codes are: P0141, P0036, P0301, and P2099. These are O2 sensor codes for both banks as well as a misfire for cylinder 1 code. I have been looking around a bit and it doesn't make alot of sense to me if any of these things coincide with one another. Are you getting a blinking CEL with yours?
 
  #4  
Old 07-06-2010, 10:00 AM
kbulava85's Avatar
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I used to get the cel blinking WAYYYY back. At that point it actually was just 1 code though and it wasn't nearly as bad. Can't remember the actual but it was o2 sensor related.
 
  #5  
Old 07-08-2010, 08:34 AM
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Well I looked up my codes one more time and the last one P2099 was the only one that had changed since the shuttering started. Turns out it means that bank 2 is running rich. I spent some time yesterday pulling the intake tubing and pulling the plugs. Turns out my valve cover gaskets have some pretty good leakage going on. So I checked my oil,.... it was OVER FILLED! probably a quart or two, damned valvoline people! There was oil in the upper intake tube so I used some engine degreaser to clean everything, and went and bought some new plugs. I had the Splitfire Platinums in there but there is a dumb screw cap on them, and one was on upside down, and all seemed to be about 1/2 turn loose. Not sure if that was the problem but we will find out later today! I'm putting some new Autolite platinums in because they aren't rediculously priced and I used them at my shop and have never had a plug related come back. I also noted that the plug on the passengers rear cylinder had a cracked insulator (the ceramic part). Any ideas what might cause this? I'm really hoping all of this work will take care of this for the most part, although I understand to take care of all of it I need some O2 simulators as where mine were relocated to following my cat removal is not proper. I followed the pics of piggy pipes to the T but still no luck. LOL. I'll keep you folks updated.
 
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