No worries man, you'll find it's pretty easy.

 

Didn't even make it past the first step LOL. I put a 3' steel bar on the end of my 1/2" drive ratchet and leaned into it a little bit...the insides of my ratchet are now outside

No worries, I'll take it to Sears and get a replacement, but I guess I should have bought that breaker bar I was on the fence about. I think I'll have a beer to regain my strength and then head over to Sears...

 

Yeah a ratchet doesn't stand a chance. Get at least an 18" 1/2 drive bar. 24" is even better. And agreed on "barley fortification" too. Beer is your constant co-mechanic on these cars. Grab a drift too if you don't have one - it works great to separate the joint from the axle. Put the axle in a vise, put the drift against the joint, and tap it off with a hammer.

You gonna make a DIY of this for inclusion on the forum?

 

Yeah I think I might, the only one I found was on the zine and it was very brief and had no pictures. Did you remove the TRE and CA pinch bolt when you did yours?

 

No we didn't. We were doing Bill's which is fwd although I doubt it matters. We were able to leave those alone and still get the axle out. When I replaced the axles on my car, it was also possible to do it with those parts connected.

 

Got all of the parts to do ANOTHER timing belt job.

 

Just got back from AutoZone with a 24" breaker bar. Lets try this again!

 

Got an estimate for my custom exhaust. Bringing them a Magnaflow 14816 and a Vibrant 12" perf-core resonator. They'll remove the old stuff, make the necessary piping, and weld it all up for $150 cash out the door. Aiming to do this Friday

 

Lol that sounds like life around here

 

Jeremy thats a great price for that!! Anybody know the tq. spec for the axle shoulder bolt?