View Poll Results: .
.
0
0%
.
0
0%
Voters: 0. You may not vote on this poll
What did you do to your B5 today?
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,670
From: Binghamton, NY
I thought so too. I brought in a midpipe taken from Keith's A4 but the way it was cut off, they couldn't reuse it. That's fine since it looks like the welds were done by a retarded chimp with Parkinson's. Not to mention, they built Keith's catback for the A8 and it sounds incredible so they definitely know how to build piping and their "newest" tech has 18 years' experience. Can't wait to hear it. Wait til you hear the 8 in two weeks (!) - it'll get you wet.
Torque spec for my car is 130 ft-lbs plus a 180.
Torque spec for my car is 130 ft-lbs plus a 180.
Found it. This is a pretty awesome write up if anyone is interested:
taligentx.com: Passat - CV Boot/Joint Replacement
Thanks for the tip Jeremy, I owe ya (another) one.
taligentx.com: Passat - CV Boot/Joint Replacement
Thanks for the tip Jeremy, I owe ya (another) one.
I made that CV joint my bitch. Couple things for anyone who might be interested in tackling this one themselves:
1. Absolutely a DIY job. If you take your car to a mechanic for this I'll e-slap you until you cry.
2. You don't NEED to remove the entire half shaft to do the job (I did not), but if you have a work bench with a vice and a set of triple square bits, I very much recommend you do it this way. I don't have a bench or a vice, so I left the half shaft in. With the car jacked up, you can turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Then use your jack--please do not use the widowmaker to do this--to compress the suspension about 8 inches. That will give you just enough room to squeak the CV joint out of the spindle.
3.To remove the CV joint from the axle shaft, a lot of DIY's suggest using a dead blow hammer. I decided to be a bit more subtle about it, and used the old shoulder bolt to sort of press the old joint off the axle shaft. There's a dimple in the end of the shaft, so once you get the joint free of the spindle, you can thread the old shoulder bolt back into the end of the CV joint. Hold the splines on the joint with a pair of channel locks, and turn the shoulder bolt with a ratchet. That'll push against the end of the axle shaft and pop the old CV joint right off. Very easy, and requires far less effort than bashing the **** off of it with a dead blow
4. You do not need to loosen/remove the control arm pinch bolt or TRE to remove the half shaft. It would probably make the job easier on a brand new car, but the added hassle those steps bring to the table on cars with any kind of mileage on them makes it a totally counter productive thing to do.
Mistakes I made:
1. DO NOT use a ratchet to break the shoulder bolt loose. I tried this and my 1/2" drive ratchet 'sploded all over the parking lot. I ended up using a 24" breaker bar with a 3' steel pipe on the end of it, and I bent the pipe.
2. As I mentioned, while it is possible to do this job without removing the half shaft, I suggest you do. It would make your life much easier.
Thanks to everyone who helped me through this job!
1. Absolutely a DIY job. If you take your car to a mechanic for this I'll e-slap you until you cry.
2. You don't NEED to remove the entire half shaft to do the job (I did not), but if you have a work bench with a vice and a set of triple square bits, I very much recommend you do it this way. I don't have a bench or a vice, so I left the half shaft in. With the car jacked up, you can turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Then use your jack--please do not use the widowmaker to do this--to compress the suspension about 8 inches. That will give you just enough room to squeak the CV joint out of the spindle.
3.To remove the CV joint from the axle shaft, a lot of DIY's suggest using a dead blow hammer. I decided to be a bit more subtle about it, and used the old shoulder bolt to sort of press the old joint off the axle shaft. There's a dimple in the end of the shaft, so once you get the joint free of the spindle, you can thread the old shoulder bolt back into the end of the CV joint. Hold the splines on the joint with a pair of channel locks, and turn the shoulder bolt with a ratchet. That'll push against the end of the axle shaft and pop the old CV joint right off. Very easy, and requires far less effort than bashing the **** off of it with a dead blow
4. You do not need to loosen/remove the control arm pinch bolt or TRE to remove the half shaft. It would probably make the job easier on a brand new car, but the added hassle those steps bring to the table on cars with any kind of mileage on them makes it a totally counter productive thing to do.
Mistakes I made:
1. DO NOT use a ratchet to break the shoulder bolt loose. I tried this and my 1/2" drive ratchet 'sploded all over the parking lot. I ended up using a 24" breaker bar with a 3' steel pipe on the end of it, and I bent the pipe.
2. As I mentioned, while it is possible to do this job without removing the half shaft, I suggest you do. It would make your life much easier.
Thanks to everyone who helped me through this job!
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,636
From: Morristown, NJ
Gave my car a complete wash and wax to prep for the Bingo meet. I spent 30 minutes washing the build-up of **** in my gas filler door.....now THAT is devotion. Granted it should never have gotten as bad as it did, but still.....she looks gorgeous. Days left......
Last edited by ObnoxiousDrunk; Jul 17, 2011 at 07:55 PM.
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 294
Fun Times lol
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49981109@N08/5946368283/http://www.flickr.com/photos/49981109@N08/5946368283/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/49981109@N08/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49981109@N08/5946368283/http://www.flickr.com/photos/49981109@N08/5946368283/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/49981109@N08/, on Flickr
