Audi dealer just told me my rear wheel bearings need replacing. $495 per wheel. Looks like a simple job when I look at the parts; hub cap, cotter pin, nut etc; parts are less than $30 a wheel. What am I missing ? Does this sound reasonable for a FWD A4 ?

 

Wheel bearing housing[/align]Servicing wheel bearing housing[/align]
Special tools and workshop equipment required

β—†VW 401 Pressure plate
β—†VW 402 Pressure plate
β—†VW 407 Press tool
β—†VW 412 Press tool
β—†VW 416 B Tubular section
β—†VW 432 Thrust pad
β—†VW 447 i Thrust piece
β—†VW 519 Tubular section
β—†3005 Thrust plate
β—†3062 Thrust piece
β—†3291/2 from assembly device
β—†30-100 Fitting sleeve
β—†3345 Tube for wheel bearing
β—†Kukko 15-17 parting tool (commercially available) [/ul]










Wheel bearing housing

β—†Note different running gear versions [/ul][/ul]
=> Parts List


β—†Do not grease bearing seat in wheel bearing housing before pressing in wheel bearing
β—†Removing and installing=>Page 40-85 [/ul][/ul]

Wheel bearing

β—†Stepped ID
β—†Installation position: [/ul]

β€’Large ID of wheel bearing faces wheel hub [/ul]

β—†Pressing out ΓΈ 75 => Fig.44[/size]45
β—†Pressing out ΓΈ82 =>Fig.4849
β—†Pressing off bearing inner race
=> Figs. 5253 and 5455
β—†Pressing in ΓΈ75=>Fig.5859
β—†Pressing in ΓΈ82 =>Fig.6263 [/ul][/ul]










Wheel hub

β—†Stepped design
β—†Pressing outΓΈ75 =>Fig.6869
β—†Pressing out ΓΈ82 =>Fig.7273
β—†Pressing in ΓΈ75 =>Fig.7677
β—†Pressing in ΓΈ82 =>Fig.80[size=-1]81
β—†Contact surface for wheel hub/brake disc and tapped holes must be free from paint and dirt [/ul]
Hexagon bolt, 10 Nm
Splash plate
Speed sensor

β—†Pull out to remove
β—†Fit drive shaft before installing speed sensor
β—†Before fitting sensor, clean inner surface of hole and coat with lubricating paste G 000 650
β—†Press home in clamping sleeve [/ul][/ul]










Clamping sleeve

β—†Always replace
β—†Left and right identical
β—†Apply lubricating paste G 000 650 to hole in wheel bearing housing before fitting
β—†Press home in wheel bearing housing [/ul][/ul]









β†’ Fig.1Pressing wheel hub out of wheel bearing housing
(ΓΈ 75 mm)










β†’ Fig.2Pressing wheel hub out of wheel bearing housing
(ΓΈ82 mm)









β†’ Fig.3Pressing wheel bearing out of wheel bearing housing
(ΓΈ 75 mm)










β†’ Fig.4Pressing wheel bearing out of wheel bearing housing
(ΓΈ 82 mm)









β†’ Fig.5Inserting parting tool

β€’Insert parting tool -1- in annular groove of bearing inner race -arrow A- and pre-tension with spindle -arrow B-. [/ul]

1 -Parting tool, e.g. Kukko 15-17 (commercially available) [/ul]










β†’ Fig.6Pressing bearing inner race off wheel hub

1 -Parting tool, e.g. Kukko 15-17 (commercially available) [/ul]









β†’ Fig.7Pressing wheel bearing -A- into wheel bearing housing (ΓΈ 75 mm)
Large ID of wheel bearing faces wheel hub.










β†’ Fig.8Pressing wheel bearing -A- into wheel bearing housing (ΓΈ 82 mm)
Large ID of wheel bearing faces wheel hub.









β†’ Fig.9Pressing wheel hub into wheel bearing (ΓΈ 75 mm)
Make sure wheel hub does not take weight of wheel bearing housing, as otherwise wheel bearing could be damaged.

β€’When pressing in, thrust pad -VW519- may only rest on bearing inner race. [/ul]
Wheel bearing housing must be kept as horizontal as possible when pressing in.
Otherwise, wheel hub will tilt in wheel bearing and result in premature bearing damage.










β†’ Fig.10Pressing wheel hub into wheel bearing (ΓΈ 82 mm)
Make sure wheel hub does not take weight of wheel bearing housing, as otherwise wheel bearing could be damaged.

β€’When pressing in, thrust pad -VW447i- may only rest on bearing inner race. [/ul]
Wheel bearing housing must be kept as horizontal as possible when pressing in.
Otherwise, wheel hub will tilt in wheel bearing and result in premature bearing damage



a lot of work and you need a 10 ton press. if you have the tools its a simple job

 

thanks ! looks like it is not as simple as it was on my old Dodge Dart. I could change the bearings in the parking lot of the auto parts shop.

 

# rough idea only

[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/1DABD4088B0C4570A2648D7FE43B790A.jpg[/IMG]

 

ahh that was the old days when they were tapered bearings and now they are solid but if you look close they are similar but better designed and held in with a locking ring and only problem is fitting them square ( most problems are fighting them obscure and damaging them so patience is the measure ) and just as simple as the older style

 

Dave:

Much thanks for clarifying this for me !

 

your welcome