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MetalMan's 1.8T FrankenTurbo (F4H-L, F21) Build Thread

Old Dec 4, 2013 | 01:15 AM
  #171  
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Today I managed to get the ash tray trim fitted to the equalizer, and figured out how to finally secure it in place of the ash tray. See the pictures

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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #172  
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Spent my lunch break working at reassembling the center console. Got all of the front portion in so my shift boot back is finally back on and the HVAC controls have a proper mount lol.

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You can also see the mess of audio wiring back there. It still has the connector for the old head unit. A previous owner did a mess of a job with wiring... butt connectors that were wrapped with electrical tape. Disgusting. Definitely going to rip all that crap out.
 
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 02:58 PM
  #173  
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After staying up pretty darn late last night finishing/testing wiring for the new DC-DC regulators (adjusted to 5.35V each, and then put in parallel), and fitting the USB front-panel connector, etc., I was able to get everything put together

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There's a pretty major hiss coming through the speakers which is independent of volume level or engine running, so I'm guessing the hiss is coming as a result of using the stock wiring and stock Bose amp. I may try to use a different ground, and/or buy a ground loop isolator to try to resolve this ASAP. It's quite annoying.
 

Last edited by MetalMan; Dec 6, 2013 at 03:04 PM.
Old Dec 8, 2013 | 04:16 AM
  #174  
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Between last night and today I spent a lot (definitely too much) time trying to figure out this damn ground loop issue.
Went through and grounded multiple points on my custom harness, including the RCAs that hook into the factory wiring leaded to the Bose amp, and the factory stereo ground wire. It's definitely much improved (bearable) but not where I'd like it to be.

After my efforts I've deemed that the slight alternator whine that's left is due to the stock Bose amp wiring, as I am currently unable to access that. So in the future since I plan to install my own amps and RCA cables I should be able to eliminate all ground loop/alternator whine noise.

Custom harness, before adding in the additional ground wires (but noted where they are):
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The "double-din box" and front fascia, including the tablet:
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And this evening I wrapped the shift surround and the pocket that sits behind the cigarette lighter in 3M Di-Noc carbon fiber vinyl. No pics yet, but soon!

EDIT: finished pic
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Last edited by MetalMan; Dec 16, 2013 at 05:49 PM.
Old Dec 19, 2013 | 06:29 PM
  #175  
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Lately I've been spending little bits of time here-and-there prepping for my aftermarket amplifier install and sub/amp install. Have lots of interior trim pieces including rear deck removed to get in all my wiring and what-not. Also thinking about tearing apart the whole interior so I can re-do the fabric on headliner/a-pillar/d-pillar/rear deck.

Anyways, I've got the amp power wire routed properly on the driver's side (originally done in a crappy fashion by a previous owner) and prepped the 6 channels of RCA cables (front + rear doors, and sub) to be installed along the passenger side trim.

While finalizing the power wire installation during my lunch yesterday, I unfortunately managed to tweak my back a little (likely just a pulled muscle).
Probably was due to the way I was contorting my body so I could work in the back seat area (with the seats down) as I am 6' 3"...
So that's definitely reduced some of my progress. Next steps are to lay in the RCA cables and drill holes in the rear deck to mount both amplifiers (they will hang under the rear deck).

Also need to pick out some fabric to buy so I can start re-wrapping interior pieces while everything is still taken apart. Hoping to do it while my work is shut-down over the holidays!
 
Old Dec 20, 2013 | 01:38 PM
  #176  
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this is a so damn awsome build thread,

im thinking about doing icm delete and install the same eq you have
 
Old Dec 20, 2013 | 03:45 PM
  #177  
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Thanks

Unless something goes horribly wrong, you'll be very glad you did the ICM delete! The process kinda sucks though due to how you work around the car to do the rewiring (unless you buy an ICM delete kit from 034 or something).

How come you want to buy an equalizer? Most aftermarket radios have equalizer settings built-in, and I've read that the stock radio has "hidden" equalizer settings.
 
Old Dec 20, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #178  
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my car is older and i dont have a radio, just have my phone connected directly to my two amps


my engine is not working as it should, cant rev past 4k rpm while driving most of the time, some times it barly makes 3k

can rev 5k in neutral
gear or boost have no effect so i think icm delete might be a good start

i cant think of any other thing causing the problem

new spark plugs and lmm mounted, pressure tested
 
Old Dec 22, 2013 | 03:48 AM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by turbokilkaren
my engine is not working as it should, cant rev past 4k rpm while driving most of the time, some times it barly makes 3k

can rev 5k in neutral
gear or boost have no effect so i think icm delete might be a good start

i cant think of any other thing causing the problem

new spark plugs and lmm mounted, pressure tested
ICM delete may help, but unless you have misfires I don't think it will clear up that issue. I'd look more towards boost leaks, MAF sensor, primary O2 sensor, and coolant temperature sensor.


On another note, user "thepirate" motivated me to pull my dash beltline trim and finally wrap it in 3M DiNoc (to match my radio/HVAC/shifter plate). I only took a picture of everything removed, but I assure you the dash beltline trim is done and everything put back together

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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 09:44 AM
  #180  
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nice, where do you find time and inspiration to do all this?
many of the things you hade done is stuff i wanted to do but probably never will


btw, maf,o2, sparkplugs are new, cant find any big boost leaks, and it doesent look like boost is a problem anyway

it just goes crappy over 3k rpm but over 5k it runs desent
at about 2k rpm it starts to spool and att 2.5k it goes like a bat until you hit over 3k where it just craps out, gear/boost dont matter

can i test o2 and temp sensor by disconnect them?
and se if it goes worse or the same

there are no fault codes

sorry for stealing your awsome thread
 

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