I replaced my Fresh Air intake duct Temperature Sensor, today!

It was easy, going under the cabin air filter, than going through the glove box.

It took me about an hour, total to replace and put everything back together.

The only thing i had to do is break off a couple of pieces of plastic, near the lip of the hole, where i had to pull the sensor up, in between the metal and plastic gap.

Once i got the sensor out of the tiny hole it sticks out from, it fell down, So i had to break the plastic, so i could see down in the hole, so i can then fish it out, use a screw driver to wedge between the plastic and metal and pulled it out with a needle nose pliers.

Now all i need to do is clear the code with my vag-com, connected to my laptop, then the code shouldn't come back.

 

Changed the thermostat to make everything run warm an cozy.

 

How can changing the thermostat, make your heat, warmer? No heat issues are causes by heater core blockage or air in the cooling system.

 

The water temp wasn't heating past the the first line on the gauge. I think the thermostat was stuck open because now it's fine. Car runs at perfect temp and heater has hot water in the heater core.

 

Usually if a thermostat fails, it fails in the OPEN position. This means that the coolant just keeps flowing around the engine and all the pipes, and the engine doesn't ever (or takes a much longer time) to get to operating temperature. If the thermostat fails in the CLOSED position, I think it would cause over heating.

I had the exact same problem; neither my oil nor coolant temp gauges would move no matter how long I drove the car (even in the hot summer). Once I changed my thermostat both of those gauges now move, I believe I get better mileage due to the engine properly warming, and I get hotter air blowing in the cabin.

 

Had the same exact problem but my heat was fine since it was stuck open.

 

Over the past two or so days I've plastic dipped my front grill (I left the rings the same as people suggested), I cut the extra plastic off from the rear license plate holder, plasti dipped and installed the front bumper valance that was completely missing when I bought the car and ordered interior LEDs to replace the stock ones.

Up next is the exhaust shop on Monday, fuel gauge sender, and I want to try and get the orange out of my headlights.

More long term includes painting the calipers once it warms up, window tint, plasti dipping the trim, and of course and ECU tune by the end of the year.

 

^You're on a roll. Don't forget to get a boost gauge, preferably before getting tuned so you know if your boost/vac are to stock spec.

 

Are boost gauges okay to put in Audi's? I don't want people to rip on me for doing it haha. Particular brand you recommend/that's common among Audi drivers?

 

Lol yes boost gauges are fine, everybody that runs a chip or more should have a boost gauge. They look best in the vents, I personally have a vdo gauge