Did you unhook the battery or ECU before you turned the key on for about 30+ seconds?

You have to unhook the battery first so that the ecu knows it needs to do a throttle adapt when you first turn the key on. You wont hear your TB click because you have a ndbw car and the TB is not going thru a cycle like the dbw TB will do. So the ecu just needs to look at the position of the TB to know where it is at before the engine is started for the first time after the memory has been erased when the power was disconnected from the ECU.

 

My car is a DBW. I did unhook the battery, re-hooked it, put the key on ACC and you know, I HEARD the little whine followed by the click coming directly from the TB (I know this 'cause I stuck my ear to it, lol)... I followed to start the engine and the problem persisted.

Here is a video of what my engine does... Sorry for the crappy quality and lack of sound, it was taken with my cellphone. In this video I am not pressing the gas or nothing, just pure idling. It is not entirely noticeable due to the bad quality but the engine essentially turns off only to start back up. The car starts doing this non-stop if I have it on for about 5 minutes. Before that, it holds the idle but as soon as you give it gas it will rev up a little and die back down...

Any help is appreciated

By the way, last time I checked for codes, I only got the cat-converter code from installing the Borla.

 

DBW = wires not cable, basically just like playstation

ndbw = cable from pedal to TB.


This could also be caused by a dirty idle control valve in the throttle body.

 

How do I get to this Idle Control Valve? Any specific precautions to clean them?

 

Ok, well I had something interesting happen...

I took the car out for a spin and while in any gear, the car is driveable only up to 1,400RPM (About 25MPH if I get it up to 5th). As soon as I go past this mark, it seems that the throttle disengages and nothing happens when you pump gas, the only way to make it pick up again is by clutching it.

Also, if I go out of gear or hold the clutch down, then the engine proceeds to do that up-and-down erratic idling.

Now the car has been sitting with a dead battery for a long time (3 months at least), so could this be a result of that? I know it might be a TBA problem, but as I mentioned, I did the key on ACC for 30 seconds and I heard that little whine followed by a click from the TB... However, the car continued to do that idling...

Any ideas on how to fix this??? Is this the so called "limp mode"???

I am expecting the OBD2 cable at the end of this week... Is there anything I can do without it?

Thank you in advance!

 

*Bump*

 

Thank you for the offer man, I really appreciate it and I really wished I lived up there, lol. Unfortunately I live in Charlotte, NC; quite ways away. But thank you anyway and thank you for the info on the cable.