thanks for the attatchments. And oddly enough I have replaced my coolant temp sensor. My coolant doesn't 'zero' out when the car turns off... it stops anywhere between a quarter and a half reading. Its very weird but it ALWAYS just warms up 2 'ticks' above where it decided to zero out the night before and just stays there so it isn't actually overheating and it is always rising half way but its faulty. Replaced the switch so not sure what else that could be or if its related

 

oh, and ill have to ask the dealer about the codes. Dunno if he ran them but if he did he didnt tell me. So these codes your talking about is different then the OBD port codes? cause I have read those.

 

u can take it to autozone and have them scan it for free. it will produce the same codes no matter how u scan it.

 

ok. Ive done that scan then and no there is no codes dealing with this. I do have a secondary air code but thats a seperate issue

 

no those numbers are not too high. on a VERY cold start for me (-10 farenheit), my oil pressure is easily over 100 psi, and will only drop to 40 psi at idle when the coolant temp is at least halfway up to warm, probably more. get the new sender in and report back with warm idle pressure

 

lol What is the code though? U gotta realize how these cars work. Any little code can cause the car to adjust parameters and make it act really funny. I had a vac leak that would make me car stall out and studder like crazy. Though i kept throwing a coil ignitor code.

 

I can't remember exact code but I am sure it has nothing to do with oil pressure issues. The code was for my secondary air and my catalytic converter. Either a bad pump, combi valve, or just a torn hose. Any of those will lead to a bad secondary air code and therefore the catalytic converter doesnt heat up enough to burn the way it should and then you get the second code, the catalytic converter. So yes I know sometimes codes can be weird and misleading but I have that one pinned down pretty well.

 

FINAL UPDATE:

So I was finally able to install the oil pressure sensor and get some numbers. about 40 degrees outside the cold idle was 45... after about 5 minutes idling it was 35... after 3 minutes driving at a stop light it was 8.. after about 6 minutes driving i pulled in the garage and at idle it went down to.... (drum roll)..... zero. Yes, zero. No oil pressure at hot idle. Shut car off, uninstalled pressure sensor, went inside and told my wife to grab her purse, drove straight to the dealer and drove away with a different car. That car was just waiting to seize up on me. Here is my prediction.

I failed to mention that the first time the pan was dropped there was "quite a bit" of shavings in the pan. I brushed it off as normal because well, every engine after 100k miles will have some shavings in there. Well, my guess is not that my rod bearing were wearing and I had too much clearance and the oil was just falling through the engine instead of building pressure. Guess we will never know though right? I hit my limit with that car. I have dropped 1000 into it in exactly one month and spent every saturday wrenching on it. The trade was to the original dealer that saw the car and he is a good family friend and knows the history of the car so he knows what he is getting into. He feels his workers can make it happen and he got me a good price for it so I had to be done. Goodbye audi. Great cars, Will miss the quattro, but man that car was a bad deal. And to think, the previous owner had to know about some of this stuff and felt moraly right selling it to me under the notion that its a 'great car'... I could never do that to somebody... Luckily this new car is one owner and he never did his own work, took it to the shop every time and kept ALL paperwork. Crossing my fingers this is a better car.